A selection of Team and Climber updates from Everest – 15th May
(Updated throughout the day)
“The first team of the Everest 2021 of the 7 Summits Club leaves tonight for climb of Mount Everest.
“Seven participants under the leadership of Alex Abramov and 14 Sherpas will start now.
“Tomorrow, probably, the Lhotse team of 6 people also will go on the ascent.
“The second Everest team will wait for the next weather window, which may be around May 25.
“Today we had training sessions with oxygen equipment. The main team is ready to storm the summit of Mount Everest on May 20
May 16 – Camp 1,
May 17 – Camp 2,
May 18 – Camp 3,
May 19 – Camp 4,
May 20-Summit of Mount Everest.”
“We leave at 2 AM tonight and climb through the icefall and up to Camp 2. I’m thinking it will take me about 8 hours to do this, so should get to Camp 2 around 10 AM.
“Will rest the remainder of the day 5/16. Will also rest all day 5/17.
“On 5/18, we’ll head out around 6 AM and go to Camp 3 on the Lhotse face. I think this will be a 4 to 5-hour climb to Camp 3. It is challenging due to the steep climb up the face to Camp 3.
“It will be optional whether or not we use oxygen as we ascend the face.
“On 5/19 we will move to Camp 4 on the South Col. We will definitely be on oxygen at this point. On 5/19 or 5/20 we will go for the summit.
“When we make the push will depend on the wind conditions at the summit. Right now, projections are good for 5/20.
“Will likely take 5/21 and 5/22 back down. If I’m good after the summit will move to get back down to relative safety of Camp 2 as quickly as possible.
“I’ve been feeling good and expect to perform well on the climb. Just don’t know how things will go from camp 4 to summit and back to camp 2.
“Feeling cautiously optimistic! It has been a very long time since I left on April 11. Ready to make this bid and get back home to my family and friends.
“Dear friends, the most important moment of the ascent is coming!
“I calmly accept what is ahead of me! I hope for the Almighty and for my own strength!
“My will and courage are still with me, and I really hope that I will find a place on the Summit!
“I am going to the top with great gratitude and faith!
“Friends, I appreciate your support and every warm word! I will never forget it…
“To my Sherpa comrades, my teammates, my brothers, my friends: congratulations on reaching the top of the world.
“Together, over the past 10 days, we filmed from basecamp to the summit and back. Our film will be available on The CBC next year.
“And yes, it feels damn good to be down!
“Anyone who becomes infected with Covid at high altitude, then develops symptoms and becomes ill, is very difficult to help.
“We do not take this risk, which is why our expedition is stopped immediately,”
“Just hiked to the high camp of a nearby peak yesterday to witness amazing views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.
“The test of patience is on and I can’t wait to be up there and wave the flags of my country and sponsors, partners.
“I feel good, strong and all I want is a good weather window with low jet streams for making it safely to the summit.
“I also pray that everyone stays safe from Covid at Everest Base Camp, Nepal and around the globe during this difficult time.”
“In light of the changed weather forecast, we have decided to wait for 1-2 days and see how the wind forecast develops.
“Weather forecasts have been changing fast lately and for example we are changing our schedule tonight 5 hours before the scheduled departure to the mountain.
“It certainly takes a change of plan at such short notice when the mind is on the mountain, but as we have suggested from the beginning, common sense and health are paramount and to return home.
“There have already been serious accidents on the mountain and groups that have had to turn around due to the weather, so it is very important to make as informed a decision as possible.
“We will therefore evaluate new forecasts tomorrow and in the next few days, but we are truly ready for the project when the weather gods give us the green light.”
“Safely back at basecamp after 4 days up high on Mt. Everest!
“Some highlights from our trip through the Khumbu Icefall and climbing up to Camp 2, joining Colin O’Brady on his second acclimatization rotation up to 21,000ft while Colin climbed even higher!
“Nothing like setting off into the dark at 1:30am into an vertical ice maze 🤯.
“The views were breathtaking and standing inside the Western Cwm was a life highlight. Crevasses and ladders, ice walls and flat snow fields, cold temps and hot, sunny sections — it’s all up there!”
“The team is safely at Camp 2.
“We’ll take a rest day here and and look at potential summit days of the 20th, 21st, 22nd.”
“We made our push (it was a bit of a gamble, but a good one considering the crowds we were trying to avoid) but the weather never really opened up as nicely as we expected (it was going to be a super tight window).
“So we got up to Camp 3 (23,000 ft), held out a night to see if the weather improved in our favor. It didn’t, so we headed back down.
“I’m back safe at BC and we’re resting before our next window (next week?). Weather should be better, but we’ll have to negotiate crowds this time.
“It is what it is! All is good right now as I chug down a bottle of Coke and a beer haha”
“I stood proud at the summit of Mt. Everest.
“I would like to thank all my family, friends and well wishers for their support.
“A special mention to @thenorthfacenp for helping with the necessary gears for the climb too.”
“We are studying many weather forecasts and speaking to all teams about summit plans. Our goal is to choose the best “weather window” during which to climb to the summit.
“After more than 7 days of daily weather forecast analysis by multiple members of our team and others, there appear to be 2 weather windows: A) 20-21 May and B)26-27 May.
“One thing we need to clarify: these windows are always changing. For example, window A is getting smaller, that is the number of hours with low winds is reducing. And, window B seems to be getting later, which means the window was going to be on 24-25 and now it has already delayed to 26-27.
“We are thinking window A is more reliable because it is sooner. Window B is 10 days away, and in weather forecasting, that is a very long time; anything could happen, and we have already seen B keeps postponing.
“Thus for us: 1 in the hand is worth 2 in the bush.”