Daily Everest Updates – 17th May

Daily updates from Individuals and Teams on Everest – 17th May.

Carlos Santalena

“Today we will crossing the Khumbu Icefall. It will be our definitive climb, also called the ridge cycle!

“I spent another 2 days updating the weather forecast and analyzing trends and the truth is that the good weather forecast for the 25th, has already been postponed to the 27th. The excellent window does not appear in the updated forecast and our operational dead line is the 29th, due to the completion of the services of the icefall doctors and also because we reached the limit of supplies and logistics for base and advanced camp.

“We will go up at dawn directly to Camp 2 and from there we will continue analyzing the forecast to choose the best day. The winds will continue above 35-40km / h, which will certainly demand a lot from each participant, but without a doubt we are prepared and we hope to find the best opportunity.

“Last night @gtarso_ and @gziller went up, they will sleep in c1 and tomorrow we will be together in c2 to fine tune the final strategy.

“Our logistics for the deposit of o2, tents and stoves in the south col (7950m) is already completed, just waiting for the arrival of the expeditionaries.”

Dan Dowding

“Strong winds have returned to Everest (70kph+). Above 8000m the jet stream is influencing the upper part of the mountain and summit. The forecast is also being complicated by a tropical cyclone in the Indian Ocean.

“Our original target summit window of 21st May now looks too dangerous, so we stood down – patience is the name of the game. It’s important not to rush and wait for the optimum moment.

“The team is in great spirits, strong and in good hands under the expert guidance of @eliteexped @nimsdai @mingma_david_sherpa @mt.sherpa.

“For now we rest at Basecamp.”

Gaz Jones

“Good things in life come to those who wait. Great things come to those who work hard for it.

“We are patiently waiting at Basecamp for Mount Everest / Sagarmatha / Chomolungma to allow us to push for the summit.

“Above 26,000 ft, the jet stream is influencing the upper mountain with 80+ mph winds. The high winds are also being complicated further by a tropical storm over the Indian Ocean which will continue to make the winds tricky on the mountain for the next week.

“The only sensible choice is to let the storm and jet stream pass. It is not uncommon to summit the mountain in late May. The best choice for our Elite Expedition team is to remain patient by staying put at basecamp, and wait for a safe window to attempt to summit. Our team has been here for almost two months, and it’s hard not to get frustrated and rush for the summit. We need to keep trekking low to stay healthy and fit, ready for a long awaited window.”

Heather Werner

“Our words have power. Especially those 4-letter ones, though overuse can rob them of it. I tend to have a lot of “oh bother” and “gosh dang it” in my vocabulary, saving the good stuff for when I really mean it.

“Climbing while sick from EBC to Camp 2, I must’ve dropped about 100 f-bombs in that icefall. And I meant every f-ing one of them.

“Always in a good mood, Mingma laughed it all off. Just another Nikaru going through the Everest process.”

High Himalayan Climbing and Expeditions

“Today Our team headed to camp 2.

“We have been waiting here at EBC for a while. and checking a few different weather forecasts.

“Wind to summit level still showing high. However we have made our plan for a summit push – A options and and B options date from 17th May to 27 May.

“We will hopefully get to the summit within best window.

“I am here at Base camp today for weather updates and once the I get the green signal I will catch up my team at c2 soon.”

Jenna Besaw

“We’ve been back at Everest Base Camp (17,500ft) for five days!

“Our descent back from Camp 2 (21,000ft) was quick and uneventful through the Khumbu Icefall, exactly as I’d hoped 🙌🏻🙏🏻. The ladders and crevasses remain 😳. Colin O’ Brady got a great rotation in — up to Camp 4 (26,000ft) without supplemental oxygen and sleeping two nights at Camp 3 (23,500ft) — before he came back down to meet me in Camp 2. He amazes me; his body’s ability to adapt to the thinnest air is 🤯 and he does it all with a smile.

“And now the waiting game begins. The weather forecast isn’t showing a great summit window for any of the climbers on the mountain just yet with high winds incoming. Even some snow is anticipated at the lower elevations in the next few days.”

Jess Wedel

“We’re right where we need to be. Hanging tough.”

We’re holding out for what we hope will be a perfect weather window.

“I’m attempting to climb two 8000m peaks in 24 hours (Everest and Lhotse) so waiting for a prime weather window is key.

“In the meantime, going on lots of walks. Eating and drinking as much as I can. Reading. Thinking of all my pals on the mountain. And soaking in the goodness.

“I know that soon enough this will be over. And I’ll never get this experience back. I’ll never be with this same group of people. All collectively working toward a goal. I know I won’t have afternoons to wait and watch the snow fall or feel the cool breeze rush through. I knew every time I hear the cracks and splitting, the snow drenching the face of the mountains, that I won’t be here forever. It will all end so better revel in every moment.”

Jonathan Lamy

“The wind is getting stronger for tomorrow, it’s impossible to reach camp 3 under these conditions.

“We have to wait another 1 day at C2 – Everest on the 21th.”

Iryna Karagan

“My friends, we are now at base camp.

“The weather and forecast have changed a lot, so we are waiting for now.

“Please don’t ask us why someone went upstairs and we didn’t. Believe me, a lot of people stayed in the base camp, some even flew down to wait.

“We have a guide we trust, which is why we are here now. We respect other teams and do not judge their decisions.

“May they be lucky and everyone be safe and sound!”

Karakoram Adventure Holidays

“The team are now back at Everest Base Camp from a 10 day acclimatisation climb up to Camp 3 where we slept – 7,200m on Mt Everest.

“This climb allows our bodies to adjust to the extreme thin air, severe lack of oxygen and weather.

“The majority of the team did well, we had one member who had to be Medically Evacuated from camp 2 with HACE – High Altitude Cerebral Edema – Thankfully they are now doing well and have been discharged from Kathmandu hospital.”

Khoo Swee Chiow

“Looks like weather is not cooperating. At first 20-21st looked ok, then high wind showed up in forecast. Then, 22nd looked ok but changed again. 25th also the same.

“The end of season is approaching, ie monsoon. Once monsoon arrives, it dumps heavy rain lower down in Kathmandu & higher up, tons of snow. That’s the end of climbing season. It normally happens at the end of May.

“Some teams are trying their luck on 20-21st but to me, it’s too risky. Climbing in high wind has high chance of getting frostbite on fingers & toes. For 8000m peaks, 40km/h wind is the limit. I would rather be safe than be having frostbites.

“But weather forecast is an art. Forecast could go either way. A high wind forecast could turn into a calm day and vice versa. That’s the risk we take.

“In the worst case scenario, there is no more window to try for the summit this season. It will be a pity but that’s life. You win some, you lose some. And there is a much bigger battle now back home.

“Maybe the mountain is saying go home or, it’s testing my patience.

“The mountain always has the last say. Let’s hope next 2-3 days bring better forecast.”

Marta Misztal

“It’s been a long journey to get to this point. Years of climbing other mountains to get the right experience, months and months of preparations to get to the right physical level and and now weeks of trekking, acclimatisation and final preps for the big push.

“We’re so close but yet so far.

“Unfortunately with a few hiccups on the way our schedule has changed and with the very small weather window our chances for the summit are dwindling. We still gonna try and I’m doing my best to stay optimistic but with all that is happening it’s not the best outlook.

“The next 10 days will be the most critical so fingers crossed! But whatever the outcome, this has been an experience of a lifetime for sure!”

Nga Tenji Sherpa

“With all the training and acclimatization activities being done, our team is well rested and ready to head out for their final summit push.

“Though there are many factors that influence the success of their climb, weather is indeed the most important.

“Our team will head to Camp II tonight and slowly and steadily try to make their final summit push by 21st and 22nd May if the weather permits.

“I wish my entire team good luck, good health, good weather and a safe and successful climb.”

Nirmal Purja MBE

“Patience. All the best things take time, patience and determination.

“Our Elite Expedition Everest and Lhotse teams are currently at Base Camp awaiting a weather window for their summit push.

“In the meantime, our team is in great spirits, fully Covid free, feeling strong and fit.”

Roeland Van Oss

“Many ‘climbers’ we meet on the mountain have hardly any experience , Sherpas do the work (and get hardly any credit…), climbers fly with the heli to a lower village to rest and they use oxygen. There is much rubbish on our way to C2 and nobody seems to pick it up…

“And on Facebook ‘Everest bloggers’ seem to dominate the Everest news, although much of what they say is only partially true….”

Summit Climb

“Yesterday was a big day, waking up at 1am and walking from base camp direct to camp 2. So we have decided today shall be proclaimed an official day of rest.

“What to do? Lay around, drink a lot of fluids, eat several meals, worry.

“Things to worry about: 1) the weather – its kind of foggy today, 2) the traffic jam – 600 foreigners + Sherpas still need to summit, 3) our team – are we all strong and healthy enough? 4) the forecast – will the 21 May window hold? Should we chase the elusive 27 May window? 5) the virus – does that Sherpa I can hear coughing have covid? 6) How will I get home? We heard all airports are closed and all flights are cancelled. 7) if I do get home, will I have to go into quarantine for 2 weeks? 8) what will happen to Kathmandu? We heard many people have covid there.

“OMG I have to stop worrying now, we are waking up early tomorrow AM to go to C3!”

7 Summits Club

“The first group of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club “Everest-Lhotse 2021” overcame the Khumbu icefall and reached camp 1.
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
“The first Everest team under the leadership of Alex Abramov today safely passed through the Khumbu icefall and reached the first camp at an altitude of 6100m. Everyone feels well. Tomorrow they go to Camp 2.”

Vanessa Estol

“We’re already at Camp 1!

“Today was a little easier than the first time passing Khumbu. We already put together the tent and ate, now to rest for a while.”