A selection of updates from the teams and individuals on the slopes of Everest.
“Our second summit wave, all remaining Teams except our Western Guided Team and one other climber, moved through the Khumbu Icefall today, with some spending the night at Camp 1 before continuing to Camp 2 tomorrow and others heading directly to Camp 2 with a planned rest day tomorrow. The weather is still looking good over the next few days for a solid summit bid.
“CTSS’s Sherpa team is busily stocking Camp 4 with oxygen and supplies in advance of the climbing team’s arrival, we’re setting up for a great summit day!”
“Cancellation of the expedition is only the beginning.
“Trekking out of basecamp is not possible, only medical evacuation. Despite the official announcement that there are no confirmed Covid cases in basecamp.
“So a helicopter is the only way out for now. Out into the worsening situation in Kathmandu…”
“Rest in peace Brother. Pemba Tashi Sherpa was a 5 time Everester who passed away by falling into a crevasse between Camp 1 & Camp 2 this morning.
“I was privileged to have him as my personal Sherpa at Himlung Himal in 2019. Wish I could say goodbye to this good young man.
“May God give his loved ones strength, especially his three little children.”
“The Team is holding at Camp 2 so they can continue to monitor the weather, as the cyclone in the Arabian Sea is now coming on land and is heading North towards China. As it moves North, it is losing power but will still create a presence on Mount Everest, with some uncertainty for another day or two for winds and snow accumulation. Our Team is doing great and continuing to rest at Camp 2 and will be in great position for when the weather begins to clear.
“Hanging tight and eager to climb on Mount Everest!”
“Went for a little hike above the valley again to kill some time and to enjoy some views.
“While we wait for bad weather to pass above 26,000’ it helps to get out and maintain a little bit of fitness here, and why not- I certainly know of a lot worse places I could be hanging out!”
“I’ll give you a little update on the situation.
“On a human point, we are a very small team…
“The 2 Japanese gave up a few days ago. Gabi (Romania) and our Michou (France) as well. Only me, Jonathan (France), and Yandi (Iceland) remain but his condition is not very satisfying.
“For the weather, I listened to the exchanges between a camp 2 team and the US. We take 100 cm of snow between today and tomorrow, always with a little wind.
“The climb to camp 3 will be rough tomorrow, but for the rest it’s a green light.
“On 20, 21, 22 it is planned 30 km / h of wind between 8000 and 9000 m, which remains correct for a summit like Everest. I think it won’t be much for the summit on 21.
“From a personal point of view, I’ve been cheering up since hearing the weather. The wait is long in a tent at 6500 m with the storm outside. Not much to do. Listening to music, looking at old pictures on my phone, reminiscing 2 years of training. And sometimes I think about returning to France with all our comfort, our food. But for now – I’m here on Everest and enjoying every moment because it’s once in life.”
“David and I are staying in Pheriche while bad weather is in higher mountains, doing some runs in those beautiful valleys. Nepal is a wonderful country with endless mountain ranges and with many villages with lodges that makes traveling hiking or running very easy and comfortable while supporting the local economy.”
“At the moment Nepal is suffering a lot from covid and economically from the lack of tourism so I cannot but encourage you to travel to this beautiful country when the situation is back to normal. And if you have this country in your heart to support one of the many associations and NGOs who are helping out in this country!”
“Just had a mask/oxygen training. Now all we need is the load to be shifted up and a good weather window which currently is not looking great.
“But whatever the outcome of this expedition, one thing is certain, it’s been an experience of a life time. I’ve seen things that I’ve never imagined and I made friends for lifetime. I read SO many books about Everest but this was different. Again, nothing like I imagined. Loved every second of it… maybe minus going up the Icefall… it scared the crap out of me when an avalanche hit 😂 nothing happened though, we just got hit by the snow cloud but it certainly was one of the scariest moments of this journey.
“About 10 days left, so let’s hope it’ll all end with no major accidents.”
“The team is doing well and is now on camp 2 at 22400 altitude, weather permitting we will head to camp 3 and climb to the top on the 21st or go back to base camp and try to climb to the top on the 26th of this month.
“Will keep you posted.”
“Update. Winds still high up top. So me and team have been resting in camp 2.
“Plan to move fast now to c3 then c4 then summit over next 3 days. Winds will dictate. But window could open 21st/22nd.”
“The first group, led by Alexander Abramov, climbed safely from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6500m) today. They are planning a rest day for tomorrow. The day after tomorrow, climb to the third camp.
“All participants feel good.”
“Today was a pain in the you know what.
“Everything’s figured out, then it goes all pear shaped.
“We awaken early to a cloudy, snowy, windy morning, so decide to stay put. You know the feeling: you are packed and excited to depart on a big trip; then at the last moment you can’t go? = Severe Let Down!
“So we have crawled back into our sleeping bags. Snow continues to fall on our tents, with the occasional sluffing sound as the white stuff piles up and slips down the nylon. By noon nearly 8 cm has accumulated. Luckily we are in a protected spot; we hear huge avalanche booms roaring down the west face of Everest overhead.
“SUDDENLY radio crackles to life: base camp calling with a new weather report: we are stuck in a cyclone from the Arabian Sea. Nepal government advises all mountaineers: be cautious until 21 May.
“Base camp says they checked forecast and best summit day is 23 May. Ok, back to sleep!”