Today’s updates from Individuals and Teams on Everest – 29th May.
“I have been walking out of base camp with Kevin Walsh and consummate guide Rob Smith for 2 days. Now in Namche Bazaar.
“We got soaked but it was worth it. Among other things we met Kilian Jornet and David Goettler on the trail. They couldn’t have been nicer. We are hoping they get a chance to do their thing, but the weather looks iffy.
“Meanwhile we saw so many interesting and beautiful things. I am very pleased we chose to walk.”
“Expedition cancelled, the announcement fell on Friday evening.
“The Nepalese government calls for the end of all expeditions and all the teams still present at Camp 2 have taken the decision to stop the climbs. The cyclone made the weather unpredictable, we were stranded for 5 days at Camp 2 in the middle of a storm. Even though the winds have calmed down, the risk of avalanches is too great, the upper camps have been devastated and it is likely that fixed ropes have been torn off. The decision to stop is the most reasonable even if it is hard to take. The disappointment is immense, I was very fit and ready for this summit push. This is the law of the mountain.
“Thank you to the entire Climbalaya team, the coaches and professionals who advised me, my “sponsor-assistants”, my family and friends who believed in me, my company and my colleagues who supported me!
“I’m very lucky to be surrounded by such good people, Now we have to organize ourselves so that we can get off quickly and climb this mountain. To be continued…”
“Due to the heavy snowfall for the past few days , we have accessed that there will be high risks in continuing our climb above camp II. In this regard, we announce the cancellation of our summit bid and also the end of the expedition. Climbing members are currently descending to base camp and are all safe.
“This is sad and unfortunate and a difficult decision to make ,but keeping the lives of our clients and Sherpas safe will always remain our top priority.”
“Cyclone Yaas has dumped huge amounts on snow on Mt Everest over the past 3 days bringing an unceremonious end to the climbing season here. The Nepalese government has requested that climbers exit the mountain due to safety concerns from the storm. There are reports of a few team still hunkered down at C2 looking for a later window and 50-80 tents taken out by avalanches at Camp 3.
“Avalanche conditions on the Lhotse Face must be extreme after so much snow and wind. We will spend the morning digging out before trying to fly the last of our climbers still at base camp back to Khatmandu on helicopters, weather allowing.”
“Finally my patience and resolve seem to have paid off. After three long days trapped in my tent at Camp 2, the storm finally broke and the weather is currently perfect.
“Tomorrow I resume my summit push, with the day’s objective being to move up to Camp 3 halfway up the Lhotse Face. Fingers crossed this weather holds for the next few days so I get my shot at visiting the top of the world.”
“After a nasty few days of wind and heavy snow, it feels incredible to see beautiful blue skies again at Base Camp today!
“I guess the lesson here is to endure the hardship and you’ll be rewarded?!”
“All of the IMG climbers are now back to Kathmandu and only Ang Pasang and six staff remain at Base Camp to get things packed up once the current snowstorm ends.”
“We had a hopeful plan of Mt Everest summit today, which meant we would be summiting the same day as the first people who summited Everest 68 years prior. Wow. PINCH ME!
“Mother Nature, however, has other things planned for us and we need the weather to be improve in order to move up the mountain. Doing our best keeping our eyes on a safe summit!”
“Today the weather is wet and wet snow is falling… But hope is still alive.
“Patience will be key!
“It is necessary to go from 7200 to 7900m, then there is the assault day, if the forecasts are correct!
“Today the snow should stop.
“We are waiting for a clear window on 30.05!”
“Due to heavy nonstop wind & snow we could not continue our expedition this year so that’s why we came back to base camp today.”
“We had a total of 10 climbers/ Sherpas from our team this season who successfully did the ‘Everest and Lhotse’ combination climb.”
“Due to the bad weather and the effect of cyclones on Everest, we had loads and loads of heavy snow fall followed by crazy horrendous winds.
“Long story short, after studying the weather in detail today; we made the push to C3. As soon as we started trail blazing and opening the routes, few other climbers followed. Today our team worked very hard, and I couldn’t be more proud of my guides.
“The weather seems to be fine and all my team are in good health at Camp 3. They all had dinner and are fast asleep .💤💤💤
“I’m doing my expedition leader evolution, checking weather, and panning for tomorrow.
“Good night folks and we hope the weather will remain as it is for next few days .
“Taking each day at time .”
“Farewell Friends! Early this a.m. we had the most snowfall of any day so far: a mega dump. Our dining tent roof collapsed. Our base camp was buried. It took a team effort to dig out.
“During breakfast the weather cleared so we telephoned the helicopter dispatcher in Lukla. The dispatcher said go to the helipad now with all passengers and all bags. At the helipad, 100 people were already queuing. Looking across bc to the 4 other helipads we could see another 50 or so people waiting for their heli.
“A few flights came, then the clouds closed in. After 1 hour we took the luggage back to our bc, planning to trek down to Pheriche: we even hired porters!
“Then the clouds parted and we decided to try the heli again. We waited 3 hours for weather, then our heli came. We had to choose between putting bags or people on the heli.
“3 bags are on the helipad. Don, Jake, Eric we miss you. Everest Congratulations!”
“I decided to collect my thoughts and write a few words from what happened last week.
“This year, unpredictable things are happening in the Himalayas, unpredictable by the Sherpas themselves. The mountain action is carried out under the dictation of two cyclones from the Indian Ocean. The first (14-21 / 05) brought strong winds, the second (from 25/05) strong winds and snowfall.
“At Camp 3 at some point the force of the wind knocks me down to the tent pitched below. After this start of the day, all Sherpas and climbers retreated to C2 in difficult conditions. . On the same day, most of the teams decided to end the expeditions, including my agency. . Dawa Sherpa, the head of our agency, decided to give one more chance to attack – if the cyclone lets go, then on 28-30 / 05 it will be possible to carry out a very exhausting action of climbing directly from C2 to C4 (1600 m of elevation) and on the same day, after a few hours of rest, start in the evening of the night attack on the summit.
“As you can imagine, it is hard core, so this offer was made to me and Mateo from Colombia, as the strongest – in his opinion – climbers in the team. . So I spent the last 2 days with Mateo and two Sherpas in C2, waiting for the opportunity to carry out this action. Unfortunately, these 2 days of strong winds and snowfall undermined the morale of our Sherpas and yesterday they announced that they have had enough, they are tired and that it is too dangerous to carry out the action after such rains.
“In difficult conditions, we started our descent to the EBC (on the way, Nura Sherpa fell into a crevice, we took him out for almost an hour, and then the backpack … fortunately the protection worked) to officially end our trip here.
“Thank you for all the words of support and comments that I have received from you during this time. There will be time for more detailed summaries. Stay warm.”