This summer David Elvira was to be climbing Broad Peak.
However his plans changed early on in the journey and his climbs will not be taking place.
Here is his diary…
Urdukas is one of the most beautiful places in Balatoro. It is in front of Cathedral peaks and pass trango towers. It is also an oasis of green on this mineral background.”
“Now I’m on my way to Islamabad from Skardu.
Have a nice day. Hope to be soon at home.”
“These next days it will be bad weather till the day after tomorrow. Then you need to let the sun clean (let avalanches happen) the mountain. Then carefully go up and see if your tent is still there… Both K2 and Broad Peak are open with fixed ropes till c2.
I wish good luck and patience to all my friends trying these two mountains.
I just do not fit with the pulling on a rope mentality. I did not train for that. Ropes add safety but take all the rest.”
“Despite good signs of physical health, is time to say goodbye to this incredible remote and beautiful region of the world.
“The weather will be bad for the next 5 days. So I go down tomorrow via Baltoro.
“Good luck, strength and patience for all the incredible climbers I’ve met these days.”
“Coming up to Camp 1 I realized that I didn’t want to give everything this mountain will demand of me.
“I just lost my motivation to suffer because the reward of being up there just seems pointless. I just don’t need to test myself any more or to go beyond my limits.
“Now that I’ve been there and seen what it is about, is time to change, to set other goals.
“In the meantime I want to spend more time with my daughters, my girlfriend and my family. Going climbing or hiking with them seems like a good idea now.”
“From my tent at camp 1 5600m on Broad Peak , you can see Concordia and Chogolisa.
“I’m very happy to be here.”
“Yesterday at Broad Peak Base Camp we added an old Venezuelan flag that my mother made me for my first expeditions in the Andes. The flag has still 7 stars instead of 8 like it should be. Maybe it helps me remind me the time before year 2000 when I still lived in Caracas.”
“Surprisingly here I’ve been eating mangoes for desert since day one.
“Pakistan is very dry, dusty, rocky. Green is only in some oasis near the river beds. Here at base camp at 4800m there are no plants. We live here by the force of our will. Anyhow the beauty of this place is stunning.”