Everest Diaries – 7th May
A summary of events from the slopes of Everest on 7th May 2022.
Taken from Social Media and Team Pages.
The first team of climbers reached the summit of Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest 8848.86m)at 18:55 (Nepal Time), becoming the first climbers of the season to conquer the world’s highest mountain from the Nepal side.
Name list of Fixing Team:
1: Kami Rita Sherpa – Leader, 🇳🇵 (26th Ascent of Everest)
2: Sona Sherpa – Co Leader 🇳🇵 Sankhuwasabha
3: Ngima Tashi Sherpa 🇳🇵 Solukhumbu
4: Phurba Tsering Sherpa 🇳🇵 Solukhumbu
5: Tenjing Gyaljen Sherpa 🇳🇵 Solukhumbu
6: Lakpa Tenji Sherpa 🇳🇵 Solukhumbu
7: Phurba Kusang Sherpa 🇳🇵 Sankhuwasabha
8: Mingma Dandhu Sherpa 🇳🇵 Dolakha
9: Pastenji Sherpa 🇳🇵 Sankhuwasabha
10: Tareman Tamang 🇳🇵 Sankhuwasabha
11: Phurba Chhotar 🇳🇵 Solukhumbu
Rest of all Everest Expedition 2022’s Participants will make summit push in next weather window.
Day 28:
Climbing high in the mountains is a long period of tedium punctuated by moments of sheer terror.
Or what many people do not know, is that in large expeditions we are generally 20% of the time climbing and 80% resting.
Now to rest at high altitude sometimes it is better with bad internet access, few books, we have to entertain ourselves.
This is the best part of dividing an expedition with what we choose to spend or the rest of life. We always have some random subject to talk about, from which or better two Toy Storys were the names of the band we would form.
We don’t have nothing to do at C2 except waiting for the next moment of pure terror.
The fixing team had reached the summit of Mt Everest this evening local time at 06:55 pm.
Our team is back to Basecamp after a rest from Namche and they are getting prepared to leave for camp 2 tonight for the 2nd rotation.More updates will come once they reach camp 2.
Today I will be entering my last rotation and of course the doors of the Khumbu Icefall. The most dangerous feature of the approach to Mt. Everest. For a period of 5 hours I will be traversing the threatening and always cracking massive ice block. MST 2:00 PM. Aprox temp – 17 Thank you for your good wishes. After this I can say I will be ready for my Summit push.
Nothing but gorgeous views from Camp 3 at 23,000ft!
The whole point of this rotation is to expose my body to extreme altitudes, then go lower to allow my body to recover and adjust itself to be able to go higher, safely.
These rotations are a lot of work, you’re climbing portions of Mt. Everest multiple times to prepare for summit day. Climbing at extreme altitudes in heat and cold pushes your mind and body to its limits. It makes me appreciate every workout or night in the oxygen deprivation tent that I didn’t skip at home
It’s been said many times that the Sherpa people are the backbone of Himalayan expeditions. They are not only the backbone, they are the heart and soul, the lungs and muscle. They truly make it all happen for the commercial expeditions. On this night in camp 2 (6400m), these studs were getting ready to carry oxygen cylinders up to the high camp on the South Col at nearly 8000 meters.
It was around 7pm and very cold. They were shoveling plate fulls of Dal Bhat into their mouths, drinking black tea, going to the bathroom, putting on down suits and big boots, talking shit to one another, fist bumping. It was like watching a pro sports team get ready for a game, but this is obviously higher stakes and real consequence. I’m so proud of our team, I feel privileged just to be near them. I’m so grateful for the effort they put forth for us.
I’m grateful they choose to do this work and keep this incredible industry alive, making peoples dreams come true, and that they do it with such grace and humility. I will forever be in awe of the Sherpa people.
Acclimatization finished and ready for a look for a summit window on #everest
The team returned to basecamp today and will now take some rest as the final preparations take place with the South Col camp.
Now is the time to start studying the weather and prepare for the summit push!
This is Camp 2 on our 2nd rotation when I got really harsh altitude sickness. I threw up and had the worst headache which kept me from sleeping for two consecutive nights. I’m only mentioning this bc we are well past the half-point of our challenge, and I wanted to share that not every day will be smooth sailing 🫤
In fact on Everest-level objectives, there will be days that test us to our very limits, but this is part of the challenge and what it takes to achieve big goals in life. So stay focused on your goal and keep on pushing forward. I believe in you, so remember to believe in yourself and I’ll see you on the summit soon‼️
OTHER PEAKS
Mountain Expeditions – Kanchenjunga
Today we woke early and descended back to the comfort and familiarity of our Basecamp. We were welcomed with warm smiley ‘Namastes’ from our Nepali crew, a cup of stupendously good juice and toast with fried egg. Perfect. This was followed swiftly by warm showers in the shower tent – which had never felt so good! Even at 5400m life feels so normal and easy compared to the last few nights up high. I’m
back in jeans and trainers once again, a small luxury I permit myself on every expedition. Recovery has begun in earnest.
The key to all of this high altitude lark is acclimatising – allowing our bodies to slowly and gradually adjust to the change in air pressure and thus the available oxygen as we ascend higher and higher. A few days ago we settled into Camp 2 at 6230m for our first night on the upper mountain. Generally poor sleep was had, appetites slightly diminished, occasional light head aches common place, but impressively the shared experience and inter team care was above and beyond as always. I almost felt like a spare part (in a good way) as they looked out for each other. Their individual willingness to be open, accepting and understanding of each other is admirable.
During the next few days, accompanied by the ever unwavering and dedicated Sherpas Lhakpa, Mingma and Pemba, we climbed to Camp 3 at ~6900m…
