Karakoram Diaries – 12th July
A round-up of today’s events on the mountains of the Karakoram.
(Updated throughout the day)
Fotis Theocharis (K2 and Broad Peak)
“Up at 04:35, melted snow to drink water but also to take with me. I ate two frozen cereal bars. Outside it was strong air. I wore my clothes and the storm mask too. I got my Piolet and started coming down, Paola was close to me. When I found the steady ropes, I continued by myself, with repeated rappels passing through Camp 2, Camp 1 to the end of the slope. Continued myself through the glacier as the BC K2. Glacier is supposed to be marked with ′′ hoodies ′′ (stones on top of the other) so you don’t get lost. But in a glacier that melts the trail of the course is never the same!!! My acclimatisation is over and I’m ready for summit push.”
Victor Sans (K2 and Broad Peak)
“4th Rotation performed. After a bad night with a lot of wind and a lot of cold, I am back in base camp regaining strength. Now waiting for the window of good weather, to be able to make the attack on top.
“Our team Madison Mountaineering have successfully opened the K2 route from C2 to C3 and all the members are at camp 2. Our fixing team departure this morning from base camp to fixed the line from C3 to C4 with coordination of Pioneer team. If the weather allows then definitely our team open the route soon.”
“Looks like my second K2 exped in 6 months has come to an embarrassingly premature end.
“Our 2021 K2 team is back at base camp after a successful 1st rotation with 2-nights at C1 (6065m) and 2-nights at C2 (6700m).”
Pete Brittleton and Paul Etheridge (K2)
“Today we got invited to attend a Puja at K2 base camp by some of our Sherpa friends who are up there with their clients. A Puja is service of blessings on you and your mountaineering equipment for a safe expedition and safe return.
We thoroughly enjoyed the experience and the hospitality shown and on our departure from base camp we went up to pay our respects to our fallen brothers who have not returned from their chosen expeditions. We were honoured to be able to wash and clean our friend’s memorial Mr Serge Dessureault.”
Saulius Demulevicius (Broad Peak)
“Tomorrow, July 13th, we will organize an agreement between all expeditions participants on the joint storm of Mountain, because little team will not manage to wise the way to the top. The nearest good air window is scheduled for July 15-18, so there is not much time to fix your health. As always. As always, I hope it works out somehow.”
“Just arrived back at base camp! Eating well, washing, enjoying the weather and regaining your strength!”
Death Zone Freeride (Broad Peak)
“Hurray, the internet at Broad Peak Base Camp has been fixed! Here is the news.
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“Now Anton, Thomas and Vitaly are at the Base Camp. Yesterday they made the descent from Camp 3 (7100 m) on skis.
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“All the participants successfully passed an acclimatization, and are ready to climb. Everyone is resting and waiting for the weather window to storm the summit.
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“There are several climbing teams there. One of them is a South Korean team led by 56-year-old Hong Bin Kim. They also plan the ascent, but in the traditional style, using supplemental oxygen and the help of Sherpas.”
“Everything went according to a tight plan: flight, indoor flight, jeep ride, trekking, and acclimatization round… we are 14 days away from home and ready for a possible summit push at the end of the week.
Only the promised 4 G communication was a frustration point but has been resolved since today.
We are being spoiled in BC by a top kitchen crew, the birthday cake was already apotheosis.
Despite the corona vicissitudes, many like-minded people have declined to the Karakoram:
It’s pretty busy here on BP and K2.
The understanding between climbers also seems much looser than usual. Tents are more easily shared on the highcamps.
Being able to store your tent on the west flank of BP at 6100 m with a sunset on K2 as a view… that’s sooo amazing!
Day 1 of the acclimatization touched 5650m for deposit of the tents and material”
“Gained roughly 100m beyond Camp 1, now heading back to base camp.”
“Broad Peak ascent plan 14th – Camp2, 15th – Camp3, 16th – Camp4, 17th – SUMMIT”
“Friends, we are doing well. We are in the base camp, we are resting. Yesterday we went skiing from Camp 3 (7100m). Acclimatized enough, wait for the weather window and move to the top of Broad Peak!”
Paul Diac and Iulian Costan (Gasherbrum II)
“Paul Diac and Iulian Costan went down to base camp. They are waiting for a better window of weather and they are recovering in the meantime.”
“We just had an omelette in BC under Muchu Chhish. Yesterday we moved here from the acclimatization BC under Marble Mountain. As part of acclimatization, we reached 5600, where we frowned for 3 days on the spot, because a pig fumbled and 50-60 cm of snow fell, so we preferred to run away, because it smelled of thick avalanches. Then we gave rest and yesterday moved the whole BC and equipment to the final destination under Muchu Chhish.“
Hiroshi Kawasaki (Lupghar Sar)
(Hard to translate)
“Moved C1 on the ridge that climbed 8 pitches from C1 on Friday. Climbing equipment was unloaded at the new C1 on Saturday. Sunday upper route work. I came across a rock wall on the upper right of the snow surface, and when I climbed the mix on the right with a slight traverse, I hit a steep garry as expected and went straight up 2 pitches to the snow surface. I hit too much piton and it became difficult for my right hand to par, so I ended here 5500m, about 10 more pitches on a simple snow surface to the planned C2 point. It’s still fun to follow the route while avoiding danger if there is no record.”
Summer Season in the Karakoram – 2021
