Karakoram Diaries – 26th July
A round-up of today’s updates from the mountains of the Karakoram.
(Updated throughout the day)
Sherpas from the Madison Mountaineering Team have found the three bodies of Ali Sadpara, JP Mohr and John Snorri from the fatal Winter Expedition earlier this year.
They have marked the bodies, which are frozen in ice. They had to return from the bottle neck to Camp 4 due to heavy winds and darkness, it has been reliably learnt by Pamir Times.
Sajid Sadpara, along with two high-altitude porters, a climber from Shimshal and a Sherpa from Nepal, and Canadian filmmaker Elia Sikaly will visit the marked locations where the bodies are present to dig the corpses out.
Digging the bodies out of the ice could take a couple of days, as at those heights it is difficult to operate due to low oxygen, as well as volatile weather patterns.
It is pertinent to note that bringing bodies down K2 is a highly dangerous task, because there are multiple areas where only expert climbers can function with minimum luggage.
It has been learnt that Juan Pablo’s family has requested that his body be kept at the mountain. It is thought John Snori’s family would like his body returned to Ireland. A decision about Ali Sadpara will be made by Sajid Sadpara, his son.
“Right now our rope fixing team of 4 sherpas reached the bottle neck above camp 4. It is a tough day trying to ‘open’ up the shoulder.
“The Pioneer team will make a big summit push tonight.
“The Madison team will make our big summit push tomorrow night and hope to reach the top the morning of the 28th.
“Now the Madison team and the Pioneer teams are working together.
“From Madison team 4 sherpas and from Pioneer team 3 sherpas are currently working together fixing lines above camp 4.
“So seven sherpas are working hard!
“Fingers crossed!!!
“Major K2 updates from our Pioneer K2 Expedition 2021.
“It has been confirmed that our Climbing Guide Sanu Sherpa and his fellow members successfully fixed and open route Bottleneck.
“They are aiming to fix few meters more upper sections and descending to C4.
“As scheduled team making the top tomorrow 27 July”
“Today we climbed the incredible Black Pyramid…and it was steep!!
“Rock bands and chimneys interlinked with fantastic névé snow from start to finish!
“It was warm again and a few rocks came hurtling out the sky. I had a close call with one but otherwise it was a great day.
“The weather is perfect at the moment and the ropes have been fixed up through the bottle neck and up towards the summit – exciting!!”
“It was a beautiful day climbing up from Camp 2, clear skys, not much wind, and not many people on the route actually. We were the only team moving up. So, we had a great day climbing the Black Pyramid and got into Camp 3 here, about 24,000 ft., this afternoon. We’re just taking it easy, resting.
“Our Sherpa team, which was fixing lines today, was able to make it up The Shoulder through The Bottleneck, around the Traverse, and nearly up to The Bench on the way towards the final pitches to the summit. So that’s great news!
“I think the Pioneer team is going for it tonight and we wish them the best of luck and good conditions.
“Our plan is to rest here tomorrow and head up tomorrow evening. So our plan is to leave the evening of the 27th and hopefully get to the top on the morning of the 28th. Fingers crossed! I’m praying this great weather continues and these good conditions hold.
“Everyone’s doing well here in Camp 3. Thanks for following!”
“It was June 26th. Urdukas (4000m). Exactly a month ago I met Rick Allen on our trekking. He was wearing a Pakistani traditional Suit (Shalwar Qamis). And he was wearing also this gentle and peaceful smile. Moving steady in direction of K2 Base Camp.
“Some weeks later I met him on Broad Peak Camp 3. And yesterday we heard about an avalanche that took his life on K2.
“I think greater minds than me can write about Rick’s achievements. I just want to thank life for having the opportunity to meet him.”
“Tomorrow was the moment to go for the summit push on the mighty K2, however a series of incidents on Broad Peak and Yesterday avalanche Killing British legendary Mountaineer Rick Allen and nearly escaped two other mountaineers on K2
While climbing above Camp 1, we nearly got hit by rocks multiple times, the extremely warm conditions made things very dangerous for me and my team! The conditions above the mountain were unclear!
“Assessing the danger and unclarity on the mountain above, I was mentally very disturbed as on the one hand I had the summit as my dream, on the other hand, was the safety of my life and my team!
“Hence I made the most difficult decision to call off the Summit Push and expedition.
“I know the summit of K2 means the whole world for a mountaineer, but I believe safety is the most important not only for me but the people with me on the mountain.”
“Leaving from C3 to C4
“In a Search mission
“Need lots of prayers mission Sadpara.”
“Team have reached Camp 3 safely.
“Summit attempt pending for Broad Peak when the time is right.”
Death Zone Freeride (Broad Peak)
“On July 25, after helicopter reconnaissance, at 20:00 local time Vitaly Lazo ascended to Camp 1 at Broad Peak, had some tea and continued the ascent.
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“At about 12 am he reached Camp 2 and went to rest.
On the morning of July 26 at 6 am Vitaly started for Camp 3, and at 1 pm he was already onsite.
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“Anton met Vitaly, the team had a break and then started to storm the summit!
Unfortunately, the third participant of Death Zone Freeride, Thomas Lone, left the project, but we will talk about this a little later.
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“Together with our guys are ascending Israfil Ashurli, Saulius Damulevichus and other alpinists.
Marco Confortola (Gasherbrum I)
“Marco makes it known that C4 has also been positioned. They troubled a lot he wrote in his message. At midnight the summit attempt will start. With him also Mario Vielmo. We will wait for updates tomorrow. No expedition this year has climbed Gasherbrum I and therefore the ascent route has to be opened. “
Summer Season in the Karakoram – 2021
Main Pic: Karakorum Expeditions Team
