Karakoram Diaries – 5th July

A round-up of today’s events on the mountains of the Karakoram.

(Updated throughout the day)

Oswald Pereira (K2)

“For last days weather stopped my climbing activities on K2. It gave me time to organize a little bit my life in Base Camp and things in my head.

“It’s been 5 months since I left this place in a helicopter. And as you can imagine I was a little bit afraid of my reaction when I’d see it again.

Pioneer Adventures (K2)

“Our Team B lead by Mr. Mingma Dorchi Sherpa are heading towards K2 Base Camp from Skardu today.
We wish them wonderful journey ahead!”

“Team A have safely reached Base Camp and set up everything. If the weather permits they will soon being their climbing activities.
Wish everyone good luck the upcoming climbing activities and safe climb.”

David Elvira (K2 and Broad Peak)

“I wish good luck and patience to all my friends trying these two mountains.
I just do not fit with the pulling on a rope mentality. I did not train for that. Ropes add safety but take all the rest.”

Lotta Hintsa (Broad Peak)

“But after my first days here and my first rotation feelings are of doing something good and being strong and motivated. Last winter 5 People I knew lost their lifes here. But I don’t see this mountain as an Assassin. It’s K2 and we have to respect it.”

“The view I just had was a massive avalanche swiping over camp 3 and making it all the way down to the glacier. Luckily no one was even close but that’s not very good news… for now we’re in basecamp with Don Bowie but moving upwards soon.”

Monika Witkowska (Broad Peak)

“Today I’m camping in the unit (camp 1). Good weather (you can’t see K2), great company (Spain, Hungary, Norway and a few British people), and the internet today I tried to post a post and it didn’t work. Head for 2 nights at camp two tomorrow morning, then sleep over at Camp 3 (7100 m) and probably at base Saturday.”

Marco Confortola (Gasherbrum I)

“Hello everyone, we returned to BC this morning. We started with the idea of ​​completing the track to C2 and depositing the material, but our path was interrupted by snow and poor visibility. No problem, we still slept one more night at 6,000 meters and this still definitely serves as a good workout.

“For the second part of this week the weather and disturbances should settle. In the meantime, we arrange all our things at the BC and recover energy for our part of the journey.”

Manuel Gonzalez and Sergio Carrascosa (Nanga Parbat)

“Lolo and Sergio have spent six long days at Base Camp , enduring heavy rainfall that left the mountain loaded with snow. Today, first sunny day, they have stayed at Base Camp, witnessing the numerous avalanches that have occurred. ′′ The most impressive one was yesterday afternoon, it started just 300 meters from the top and walked the whole wall “. Both climbers agree on the need to give this safety day, as the risk of existing avalanches is huge.

“After 23 days of expedition at the mountain base the climbers are frustrated by the little progression in altitude, due to the climate adversity. They are also aware of the lack of acclimatization they have and therefore face the next few days hoping that the weather will be favorable to them and they can perform a good stay at altitude, then importantly they can move safely to the top of 7,500 meters.

“If all goes well, they will do 8 days in higher altitude to acclimate up to at least 6.500 m. 

Lolo recognizes that with this is 16th attempt to 8,000m and that never after so many days of  Base Camp, he had failed to reach 6.000m. ′′ I lived something similar when we ascended to Cho Oyu in the winter; it took us to take off, but in the end everything went well In addition to the isolation situation Sergio and I are experiencing, it also resembles the one we experience in that time. The big advantage is it’s not that cold “.

Edu Marin (Trango Towers)

“All ready to leave tomorrow for Pakistan, it will surely be an unforgettable experience! We will be in extreme situations, climbing at more than 6,000 meters of altitude, we feel prepared and we go with the best material. Thanks to everyone for the encouragement we will keep you informed.”

Juho Knuuttila (Dansam Peak)

“Now we are off to the mountains for a next month or so and staying silent until we come back. We are going to attempt K13 aka Dansam peak (6666m). There was a strong French team on the mountain last month and they managed to climb the lower western summit (6600m) of K13 via a good looking spur. The main summit (lefthand summit in the pic) is located 1km to the East and remains unclimbed, at least officially. Let’s see what we can do.”

 


Summer Season in the Karakoram – 2021