Karakoram Diaries – 9th July
A round-up of today’s events on the mountains of the Karakoram.
Communications are slowly improving – as is the weather.
Karakorum Expeditions (K2 and Broad Peak)
“Today our team has fixed rope till camp 3 of Broad Peak, the team will start fixing rope till camp 3 of K2 tomorrow.!
We are looking forward to a great season!”
“Shehroze Kashif, the youngest Pakistani who recently made a new record by summiting the Mount Everest, is now all geared up to summit K2, the second tallest mountain in the world!
“The gallant boy was warmly welcomed by Summit Karokoram today in Skardu and presented with a number of gifts.
“At present, Shehroze is in Skardu, the famous city in Gilgit−Baltistan and mountaineering headquarter of the world.
“Shehroze will In Sha Allah start his journey to Ashkole tomorrow.”
“Stormy conditions with snow fall for past few days has forced the team to stay at Camp-1 and acclimatise. With clear skies we will move onward and upwards.”
“I don’t know for sure, but it is very likely that this will be my last expedition. I am not quite comfortable, K2 is very demanding and I no longer find the desire to suffer so much. Right now I do not know if I will try to reach the top or I will only do what has brought me here. But it’s me, it’s not the mountain. She doesn’t even ask us to come disturb her. We are the ones who come again and again fascinated by her incredible beauty.”
“Going from camp 2 to base camp, 2nd rotation done.”
Marco Confortola (Gasherbrum I)
“Marco announces that he has reached C2 as per program. During the climb they had the company of an incessant wind, probably the effect of the channeling of currents between the mountains. Also for tomorrow the weather situation needs to be stable in order to proceed towards C3.”
“Arman Shahpari and Milad Keshavarzi managed to set up camp 2 “Gasherbrum 2” at an altitude of 6550 meters today, July 9, 2014. It is worth noting; Due to the recent heavy rains in the area, the “Banana Blade” between Camp 1 and 2 was full of snow, making the climb difficult and more challenging. If the conditions are favorable, they will continue their ascent to Camp 3 tomorrow to set up this camp. I have to remind you; The team climbs without the use of oxygen capsules and altitude carriers.”
Beskid Expedition Team (Gasherbrum II)
“Conditions are not very good, after the last snowfall, we have to pave in sugar.”
“Today, together with the Czech Republic team, we managed to rail the road to C 3 up to 6700 m above sea level, until the last serak stopped us. Tomorrow we move on.”
“The beautiful and rugged Charakusa Valley -or better to say: its weather- didn‘t allow us to see and explore much of its beauty, let alone do a climb. Two short weather windows allowed for half-day excursions, but most of the six days we spent in the valley were filled with rain, hail and snowfall. One of the main attractions, K6, remained hidden in the clouds, but at least it made a good background for this pretty, unnamed needle on Fathi Brakk.”
The hustle before the expedition starts is always strenuous. Preparing, organizing, and this time also cancelled flights shortly before heading off. Luckily we were able to get new flights. Now its time to prepare mentally for the time in Karakoram and hope for good conditions and perfect weather.
Summer Season in the Karakoram – 2021
