Yulia Zi – Broad Peak updates

Broad Peak Expedition 2021 / Terzyul 14 Project

Yulia Zi is on Broad Peak with a very special mission – Terzyul14, a project dedicated to honoring the memory and raising awareness about Vladyslav Terzyul (that includes a documentary), the first and only Ukrainian alpinist to date who has been to the top of all of the 14 highest mountains in the world (above 8000m).

We will follow her journey here…

23rd July

“Every day of an expedition is an event of its own. Today marks day 31 since I left my home in San Francisco to attempt my first ever 8000m with no team or guide. I knew it’s not going to be easy but it turned out even harder. Our internet is very bad and time slips through the cracks easily so It’s hard to keep you up to date.
The approach to K2 and BP basecamps is known to be one of the hardest and the longest. Huge difference from luxury of trekking in Nepal. But the first sight of K2 was worth every struggle. How much I read about you! And now you are there to be admired every day. Broad Peak, you have been heavily underestimated by many!

“I share my BC with two amazing brits Paul and Pete who are on the way to become the first ones in the UK to summit both BP and K2. Every morning I am spoiled by a proper coffee from the company started by their ex-military friend @tacticalcoffeecompany. We are serviced by one chef, his assistant and kitchen boy. At BC each member has its own tent that requires moving sometime as it sits on the glacier that also moves.

“Getting to the base of the mountain requires an 1.5hr walk on the glacier. The route to c1 and C2 are dangerous with avalanches being the main threat. The start of the route is also notorious for a rock-fall so you gotta move fast. The camps are tight with the bathroom so close you can smell it everywhere. One must use a rope to get to your no secret and not private spot at all and try not to fall off the mountain at the same time. I have to share a tent with my Ali at high camps. Thus beautiful views, consonant risks and absolute discomfort (physical and psychological) are the most loyal partner of any 8000m expedition.

“Unfortunately we had a first death on Broad Peak – Mr.Kim of South Korea, who did summit becoming the first disabled person to complete all 14×8000 but died on the descent. I will never forget him sitting across the table & wishing everybody a safe summit. RIP.”

13th July

“Sending greetings from Pakistan, Karakoram range, where I reside at the moment at Broad Peak Basecamp (5051m). I am here with a very special mission – Terzyul14, a project dedicated to honoring the memory and raising awareness about Vladyslav Terzyul (that includes a documentary), the first and only Ukrainian alpinist to date who has been to the top of all of the 14 highest mountains in the world (above 8000m).”

“Why and how did I come up with this idea? About two years ago I came across Vladyslav’s name on Wikipedia. Given I am madly in love with the mountains, his achievement as the Ukrainian alpinist truly impressed me. His unique character and life story inspired me. I was surprised I have never heard of him before, especially him being also from South of Ukraine, living by the sea, climbing the highest mountains worldwide during a very difficult for Ukraine time after the Soviet Union breakup. To every summit he carried a Ukrainian flag with him. Unfortunately, from 14 highest summits 2 were not recognized officially due to an error with the main summit. One of those summits was the top of Broad Peak in 1995 (many other alpinist made the same error). Vladyslav was going to return and tag the main summit but unfortunately he tragically died while descending from the summit of his final 14th mountain Makalu (2004). This is why I am dedicating my first 8000m mountain attempt to Vladyslav’s memory and raising UA flag in his honor as well as those brave Ukrainians who are attempting K2 this season. I want to raise awareness about Vladyslav Terzuyl both an the ukrainian alpinist with an incredible achievement but also as a person who knew how to set high goals and make it happens no matter how hard it was. Ukrainians today should know Ukraine’s hero’s and simply have good role models from Ukraine. Also those perished live while we remember them. “

“I don’t know what’s going to happen. All I can do is work hard and hope for my maybe modest but descent experience, health, physical and mental strength, mountain luck will remain with me to try my best and safely come down. I am here on my own, no guides, no other team members, just me and my HAP (High Altitude Porter) Ali (A pakistani version similar to Nepalese sherpas). But I know for sure that I am blessed to have this unique opportunity and honorable occasion to experience the beauty of these legendary mountains, test my limits and what’s most important – bring your attention to Vladyslav’s story. What will happen? No ones knows. Expedition life is the life of one day and one task at a time. Send positive thoughts my way please.”

 


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Yulia Zi