Mario Vielmo is heading to Gasherbrum I and is dreaming of the summit after two close encounters with it in the past.
We will follow his journey with this diary…
“Last week Marco Confortola and I opened the way towards the Gasherbrums pass and mounted the C2 at 6450m.
“The following day despite the strong wind and cold we managed to equip 200 meters along the most demanding stretch of the Japanese couloir towards camp 3.”
“Marco and I are very motivated and together we will do our best. The Peruvian Flor Cuenca also did well, tracing the last 200 meters to the hill. She will also go up with us. An exceptional woman, very strong and tenacious. I also thank Pakistani Ali Mussa ‘who is giving us a great hand in bringing various material up to altitude including 300 meters of rope to be fixed, bolts, nails, tents etc.”
“When I see K2 I like to remember the figure of Renato Casarotto from Vicenza who unfortunately lost his life at the foot of this mountain by falling into a crevasse. Very strong solitary mountaineer who entered the history of mountaineering. Great Renato! Tomorrow I will arrive at the Gasherbrums Base Camp.”
“Today we arrived at Concordia 4600m in the clouds, and certainly one of the most fascinating mountain places. 360 degrees of pure beauty looking at K2, Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums chain. I always feel a great emotion when I arrive here. Indelible memories. Beautiful moments, others dramatic. But the place always remains magical. I would like to remember the friends who stayed in this place. Stefano Zavka, Michele Fait, Cristina Castagna They lost their lives chasing their dreams. Then Daniele Nardi at Nanga Parbat. Hello my friends, you will always be in partnership with me.”
“Today we arrived at Gore 2- 4500m. In two days, weather permitting, we will arrive at the Gaserbrums base camp.”
“Today we leave with the jeeps to Askole, from where we will then leave for the long Baltoro trek.”
“Today I finally get to announce the official start of my new adventure in Karakorum,”
“After a thousand difficulties and cancelled flights I finally landed in Islamabad, capital of Pakistan, then moved on to Skardu. My Karma brought me here to climb the Gasherbrum 1, 8080 m.
“I’ve already tried to climb it twice before. The first attempt dates back to 2011 when I reached 120 meters from the summit. I remember when I found myself only at 10am, perfect timetable for what I had set and I was fine. I only needed another hour to reach the top, but suddenly a wind and snow storm forced me to decide quickly whether to keep going up or down.
“It was a very difficult choice to take in a few moments.
“There is no room for mistakes up there, your life is at stake, and a mistake can be fatal.
“I promised a loved one that if something went wrong I’d come down without delay. And I also trusted my instincts, so I came down the mountain.
“Even the second time in 2018 I had to give up the summit. During the expedition there was no shortage of problems, and when it was time to try the summit, once again the bad weather and high temperatures made me stop and quit.
“Now I’m even more motivated because as life teaches us, unrealised dreams must be chased.
“The mountain remains for me something that goes beyond adventure despite the thousands of difficulties encountered in these adventures.
What I feel during these journeys comes from my soul following the magical attraction to the thin air of the great heights.
“Now I feel it’s time to climb the last 120 meters of this great mountain.