Dujmovits and Hansen ready for unclimbed Biarchedi I

Ralf Dujmovits and Nancy Hansen are on the unclimbed Biarchedi I, a 6781m peak south of the Baltoro Glacier in Pakistan.

Here are their latest updates:

13th June

“We have happily arrived at our basecamp at 4,500 m at the base of the Biarchedi group in the mighty Karakoram mountains of Pakistan.

“Since we arrived eight days ago, everything has gone incredibly smoothly and we have been warmly welcomed by everyone we meet.

“We enjoyed getting to know our porters on the way up under constant blue skies and bright stars. Every night, our cook and friend Ehsan makes great food which we eat in front of five-star panoramic views.

“To say we are fortunate is an understatement.”

15th June

“The first two full days after arrival at any basecamp, I always take it easy – just arrange the basecamp and acclimatize! We came way too fast to 4550 m at our basecamp for Biarchedi I – so our bodies are still in a deficit of acclimatisation.

“And so it’s smart to just rest and give the body enough time to run through all the physiological processes which are necessary to get along with an O2-pressure which is close to 50% of what it is at sea level.”

16th June

“After perfect weather for our trek to basecamp, the snow has arrived along with stomach problems for Nancy. Still, we’ve managed to get a closer look 500 m higher at one of the access cruxes on our attempt and deposit some gear near the base of it. The bad weather should be with us for at least the next couple of days, after which we should be ready to go for some further exploration and sleeping higher.”



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