Monday, July 22, 2024
Other Peaks

Czech Team – Muchu Chhish Diary

A team of Czech climbers attempted to make the first summit of Muchu Chhish, 7452m.

For Pavel Kořínek, Pavel Bém and Jiří Janák it was be their second time on the mountain though as last year they unfortunately ended their expedition after reaching Camp 3 at a height of 6313m

Avalanches prevented them from getting any higher so they made an attempt again at the unclimbed peak this year.

They were accompanied by their compatriots Lukas Dubsky, Leos Hustak and Tomas Petrecek.

We followed their journey here…

July 24th

“Unfortunately, even the second attempt to top the undefeated Muchu Chhish failed.

“This time we were not betrayed by bad weather, but a large amount of snow on the ridge at 6600 m. After several hours of running to the waist in “sugar crystal” disgust, Tomáš and I had to turn around.

“The event developed very promisingly. The weather was good, the climbing conditions were good. Last year’s experience, namely that we will not set up more than one tent in C2 and C3, forced us to divide into two independently advancing groups at the very beginning (Kořen + Tomáš and Drobek + Punkáč + Vípek). Tomáš and I were to be the first to leave BC and the boys were behind us that day. We to C2 and they to C1. So we were to proceed to the main ridge. Surprisingly, this sophisticated strategy lasted us all day (the boys turned it around due to the difficulty of the terrain from C1). Tom and I completed the road from BC to C2 after about 10 hours (approx. 1500 m high), where we dug a place for a tent on a narrower ridge than last year.

“We reluctantly ran to the traverse, which so threatened us so terribly last year (12 o’clock) in the morning. Compared to last year, we moved the direction of the traverse a little lower, over a strip of mixed terrain, where there were only a few options to rest easily and, most importantly, to unlock more easily.

“We conquered the traverse in about 6 hours, swung around the mega-giant seraks and under one of them near the ridge we set up C3, where we survived the night. The next day was beautiful weather. We went around the “sleeping” shaker and headed for it on a steep slope directly to the ridge.

“After a few moments, however, it was obvious that it would not be free. 5 cm crust of frozen snow and under it sugar crystal, sometimes even more than a waist, to which 60-70 ° avalanche-stinking slope. After 5 o’clock it was already clear that the plan to reach the main ridge that day is completely unrealistic, attacking the top within 2-3 days is completely out of the bowl, babies on the way back.

“A difficult decision was made to return among the people. We wanted to enjoy the descent, so we bravely, without hesitation, descended the unclimbed southwestern wall – at least here we have the primacy. All in all – we moved the figure about 250 m higher and confirmed that Muchu Chhish will not be easy to climb. Thanks for supporting our event and horezdar, Koren

“P.S. An 11-member Greek expedition is preparing for Muchu Chhish in a month.”

July 20th

Tomas Petrecek

“Another hill not climbed! And this year’s remains virgin, without the imprint of a human footprint. I don’t know if we did our best, but at that crucial moment we felt that way… Thank you very much for your kind comments and support!”

July 18th

“Back in BC, eating ibex, rice a apricots and having great rest. Finally I have enjoyed food. Climbing today stayed quite according a plan. We are totally sunburned, tired and 10kg lighter but happy to be back. And also finally without my backpack, it has 24 kilograms.
No summit but still happy, conditions were crazy so it was far to big adventure.
I wish to everyone who likes mountains to visit this breathtaking valley. Just here in BC climbing from here is just little different story…”

July 17th 

“We reached the C3 camp yesterday, where we slept under 20 meter high serac. It was about 200m further than last year. We were planning to cross the whole main ridge today. But as the weather conditions were poor, there was a snow blizzard outside, we left our camp at 8 in the morning. After 5 hours of walking in a snow up till waist, we managed to climb only 250 meters. Then we decided to retreat back to C3. Tons of snow! We need a snow blower!. We are back in C3. The rest of the team is safe back at the basecamp.”


“WE GO BACK DOWN … Today we definitely had to turn it around. And even according to what the descent looked like, it was probably a good decision … The long descent of the steep walls made us busy. We set up mainly over the rocks to avoid avalanches. At least 20 abseils, a traverse of a waterfall, a rope cut for us several times, just an adventurer! We do a lot of abseiling over rocks due to avalanches. However, the final avalanche slope could no longer be avoided. And it worked out for us … I didn’t even hope to descend to the 4890 m to the glacier, but we succeeded. We are cleaned in safety … Early tomorrow morning we have to get out into the saddle – about 300 meters above sea level and then go down the gutter to BC. The weather is supposed to get worse … He is said to have caught a capricorn in BC, so maybe some meat is waiting for us. I would like a steak. I’m really looking forward to rest and I don’t like a good meal here. I only eat one Chinese soup and biscuit a day…”

July 16th 

“We left at eight o’clock this morning, because until then it was blowing and snowing. Wading in ice took turns all day wading in deep snow and on very steep slopes. After five hours, when we started to browse the belt, the decision was clearly made … Quick retreat! There is some snow. Just for the cutter. Now we are hidden in a tent under the serak. Safe from avalanches that travel here in various ways…”

July 15th

“Weather forecast seems promising until the end of weekend! We started our first attempt to Muchu Chhish peak. The route is well known to me from the previous expedition so we reached C1 camp pretty fast. Punkac, Lukas and Drobek stayed at C1 overnight and I continued with Tomas until C2. It was really exhausting, 1600 height meters. We continue to C3 tomorrow morning. Guys will follow us. Fingers crossed!”

July 12th

“We just had an omelette in BC under Muchu Chhish. Yesterday we moved here from the acclimatization BC under Marble Mountain. As part of acclimatization, we reached 5600, where we frowned for 3 days on the spot, because a pig fumbled and 50-60 cm of snow fell, so we preferred to run away, because it smelled of thick avalanches. Then we gave rest and yesterday moved the whole BC and equipment to the final destination under Muchu Chhish. “

July 6th

“We continue with acclimatisation on the Marble mountain. We reached 5400m yesterday and established C2 camp. We hope to reach 6000m today to boost creation of our blood cells. It started snowing a lot so the weather forecast doesn’t seem to fit.”

July 4th

“We spent two nights at the basecamp under Sang-E-Marmar (Marble mountain) in 4200m. Today we are heading on 5days acclimatisation at 6000m. We are planning to move to basecamp of Muchu Chhish somewhere around 11 July.”

July 1st

“Yesterday was all about repacking our stuff. Our sherpas left today at 9am with our cargo, meanwhile we were still waiting for some fabulated approval about vaccination to enter the valley where there is nobody. Of course we have the approval, but now its about its translation to Urdu…
Currently we are on the road heading to Magmar already where we plan our acclimatisation.”

June 28th

“So we have just landed, completely tested even behind ears. We had a small complication in Dubai as we didn’t have the return ticket so they thought we try to emigrate to Pakistan. We had to act fast and bought some random cheapest flight ticket just 10 minutes before the gates closed. And it was a return ticket from Pakistan to Dubai but with stopover in Karachi 😃 So if the climbing itself doesn’t go well we will make a visit of the biggest waste dump in the world!

“We swiftly loaded our stuff on a minibus and we are currently rolling across Abattobad, Babusar pass, Chilas towards Gilgit, where we should sleep tonight It is much faster to go through Babusar pass than via Karakoram highway. If there are no complications it should take about 16 hours.”


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