Daily Dispatches – 14th May
With the route now officially fixed to the summit of Everest, attention is turning firmly towards the early summit pushes of the season.
The team from Alpine Ascents International are currently completing their final acclimatisation rotation before summit bids begin. Expedition leader Ben Jones reported from Camp 2 that the climb through the Khumbu Icefall and into the Western Cwm has been the best he has seen in over a decade and a half on Everest.
Their team climbed to Camp 2 in “perfect conditions and zero crowds”, with Ben remarking that even the usually technical sections between Camps 1 and 2 have become relatively straightforward this season. After another clear morning beneath the Lhotse Face, the climbers are preparing to touch Camp 3 before descending back to Base Camp for recovery ahead of summit attempts.
Importantly, the team also confirmed hearing that the rope-fixing Sherpa team successfully reached the summit, officially opening the route for commercial expeditions to begin their pushes towards the top.
Meanwhile at Base Camp, the 7 Summits Club team enjoyed a quieter day beneath Pumori while keeping a close eye on developments higher up the mountain.
The standout story from their camp continues to be Rustam Nabiev, who successfully crossed the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 using only his hands in a gruelling fifteen-hour effort. Nabiev, a double amputee and former paratrooper, is now resting after another remarkable milestone on his Everest journey.
Expedition leader Alexander Abramov also revealed he intends to attempt Everest while fasting, something he says he has successfully done on previous climbs.
The team additionally welcomed an extraordinary trekking family to Base Camp — parents accompanied by their seven-year-old and two-year-old children after a twelve-day trek from Lukla. Even on Everest, that drew plenty of admiration.
Elsewhere, the Climbing The Seven Summits expedition shared stunning views from Pumori Camp 1 overlooking Everest and the Lhotse Face, where climbers could clearly be seen moving high above the Western Cwm.
Their Western Guided team, alongside climbers Chris and Dom, are currently resting at Camp 2 during acclimatisation rotations, again benefitting from excellent weather. Other members of the expedition have already returned to Everest Base Camp for recovery, with cappuccinos and hot showers replacing crampons and fixed ropes for a few days.
Fresh signs that summit season is finally about to ignite continued to emerge throughout the day.
British climber Adam Sweeney revealed that teams are now simply waiting for the weather to ease before launching summit bids. After spending six demanding weeks on the mountain, he described the toll Everest has taken both physically and mentally, but stressed that patience remains vital.
“The safer option is waiting for the weather to pass,” he explained, while hinting that the crucial summit window may now be only days away.
Several climbers have now confirmed they are beginning summit pushes immediately.
Ramesh Gurung announced his team would depart for Camp 2 overnight as they begin their move towards the summit, while Lakpa Tenjen Sherpa posted simply: “Family above fear. Everest summit push begins.”
Meanwhile, climber Alex Uddin confirmed his acclimatisation rotation is now complete after enduring brutal 55km/h gusts and whiteout conditions during a climb to Camp 3 at 7,000 metres. Like many teams currently resting at Base Camp, he suggested a summit push could begin as early as tonight.
Adding to the growing momentum, Imagine Nepal confirmed one of the first successful Everest summits of the season. Their team reached the top yesterday before descending safely back through Camp 2 and on to Base Camp today, with several climbers already departing Nepal following their success.
Elsewhere, German climber Benny Lieber perhaps summed up the feeling across Everest best with a short but telling message:
“We are ready…”
