You may all be wondering where is the summit photo?
Unfortunately no summit yet.
At the Balcony during our summit push around 8,300m I saw someone in danger. A man who needed rescuing and no one else was helping.
I made the decision to cancel our clients summit push so that I could bring him down to safety before he died up there alone.
I carried him myself all the way down to Camp 4 where a rescue team helped from then on.
I will be back up the mountain soon after regaining energy from a huge task but I am so happy to say he is alive and recovering in hospital.
Here is what Ben said – Hi, today we heard on the radio of a Porter in a crevasse slightly above camp 1 at lunch time. Me, David, Dr Abhyu, James, and Ang Dorji responded. I was first on scene and the Porter was out of sight but could whistle. More than 60 meters deep in the black. SST Porter. Over 3 hours, with SST, we made a Successful rescue and the Porter lived. We are very proud! SummitClimb was an exceptional presence and made this rescue possible. The Porter had no harness and was fully wedged. 2 SST sherpa went in crevasse and I took lead from the lip. Porter came out uninjured and cold. Dr provided immediate patient care and he will be more than okay. No long term injuries.
On Friday, May 19 2023 at 7:51AM (PST) I summited Mount Everest. It has been a profoundly difficult journey but with your prayers and support I have been successful in raising our flag once again at the top of the world. I am currently at 7000m and trying to descend safely.
It’s nice to be back and be with family after two months Everest Expedition since 27th March 2023. I’m still trying to recovery from the frostbites to my fingers.
It was a tough climb on Everest and I hit the summit on 17th May 2023, 12pm local time.
On May 19, 5:50 a.m. my dream came true: I AM ON THE TOP OF EVESTEST!
At the highest point of our planet!
EVEREST- dream, madness, ambition, obsession, ultimate goal? It’s probably all of it. When I did stand on the summit, a windy and cold morning on May 16, 2023 with my guide @guideyukta , it was a magical moment with mixed emotions of pride, satisfaction and yet some sadness.
Everest isn’t the most technical climb in the world, in fact 90% of the South Col route involves steep snow slopes. However, it is the world’s highest peak with the altitude of 8,848.86 meters and this is where the danger comes in.
You may ask why sadness? Everest’s capacity to kill is part of its allure. Everything above camp IV reminds you how dangerous this whole endeavor is. On the south summit my guide and I discovered a climber that was left behind the day before. He was in the absolutely horrible condition. Thank God, he was rescued later on by @nimsdai and @eliteexped team and evacuated to the hospital. A little further down, by Hillary steps, you see a dead body and there are few more on the way down.
I am still processing what I saw and what has happened.
Szilárd left the base camp of Mount Everest last night to reach the highest point on Earth on 24th May, according to plans.
Currently in camp 2, at 6400 meters.
“I am now closest to the peak of Everest. I am afraid, but at the same time with happy excitement, I look forward to my departure: the “starting line” – the camp No. 4, from where the actual peak climbing begins – is still far away! Anything can happen until then, but I have a lot of faith in good luck! I feel that success cannot be lost on my preparation and the work invested in the previous weeks of the expedition! I am lucky to have my Family and Friends, supporting Partners and even an entire country standing by my side! I feel like crawling for everybody now! Ready to go! ”- he wrote before leaving.
Hari Budha Magar
At around 3pm on May 19th, Hari stood victorious atop the world’s tallest mountain as the first ever double above-knee amputee to scale Mt Everest.
Thirteen years after losing his legs in Afghanistan, Hari has proved disability is no barrier to reaching the 8,849 metre peak.
Hari’s climb was made possible by a world class team of Nepalese climbers, led by Expedition Leader @krisnathapa22. At the top, Hari shouted “We did it!”, a reference to, and in recognition of, the team effort that enabled this success.
Over a satellite phone call, made possible by @NSSLGlobal to his team off the mountain, he added; “That was tough. Harder than I could have ever imagined. We just had to carry on and push for the top, no matter how much it hurt or how long it took. If I can climb to the top of the world then anyone, regardless of their disability, can achieve their dream. No matter how big your dreams, no matter how challenging your disability, with the right mindset anything is possible.
“When things got really tough it was the thought of my amazing family and everyone who’s helped me get onto the mountain that pushed me to the top. Without the support of so many this expedition simply wouldn’t have been possible.”
Hari is now safely down at basecamp.
What a wild adventure! I made some great friends and had some intense experiences this Everest expedition. But the time has come to leave our Everest camp and return to the real world. I will leave stronger and forever grateful for this opportunity of a lifetime.
Finally I am writing this post to share this news with all of you that On May 17th and 18th morning,I have successfully summited of Everest(8848M) world highest peak and Lhotse(8516M) world 4th highest peak back to back.
To be honest this incredible success is the result of years of hard work, dedication, and rigorous training.No shortcut at all.
The climb to the summit of Everest and Lhotse was an arduous journey that involves overcoming extreme weather conditions, high altitude sickness, and technical challenges. I felt so proud to over all the challenges and hold our Indian flag in my hand, view from the top was undoubtedly breathtaking.
This entire journey reminders me that with the right mindset and unwavering determination, we all can overcome any obstacle, no matter how daunting it may seem. We all can climb our own Everest in our own mind first and overcome our personal challenges.
I am grateful for the support of My family, My Indian bank, My colleagues and my friend.
who believed in my dreams, mentored me and gave me the confidence to achieve this rare feat. My success is not just a personal achievement but a victory for my entire village, community, family. I hope it will inspire others to chase their dreams and strive for greatness.
Special thanks to my brother @mountaineer.rahul , @uforangers for my smooth Expedition. Kudos to my Sherpa team 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you to each and every single person who prayed for me.
I’m very pleased to have summitted Everest this season again. Like I’ve mentioned earlier in my feed this was my 9th expedition to Everest and 7th summit.
We started our summit push quite early at 8:00 pm on 17th may from South Col to avoid traffic as there were approximately two hundred climbers pushing for the summit the same night. We were also informed that the wind will be picking up next morning. Therefore our summit strategy was to summit and get back to south col as early as possible.
Many climbers from the other teams left at 7:00 pm for the summit push but still we manage to overtake most of them on the triangular face keeping our pace steady. We had a very calm summit night upto South summit and experienced gusty wind on the summit ridge. We summited quite early in the dark at 3:40 am on 18th may and managed to get back to South Col before 9:00 am. We rested for few hours and descended back to C2 the same day making it whole long summit day of 20 hours in total. The next early morning we left camp 2 and made it back to base camp before noon.
My sincere thanks to @climbingthesevensummits for having me in the team and also to all my families and friends for sending me love, prayers and strength.
Both teams have made it to Camp 3 on Everest and are resting comfortably in their tents.
The tentative plan is to move on to Camp 4 tomorrow on both Everest and Lhotse.
Everyone is feeling optimistic and excited to move towards the summit