Daily Everest Updates – 28th May

A summary of updates from Individuals and Teams on Everest – 28th May.

  • Cyclone Yaas continues to cause havoc on Everest.
  • Around 100 climbers are based at Camp 2, unable to go up or down.
  • Others, that have already concluded their seasons, are struggling to find a safe way out of Base Camp.
  • Ministry of Tourism for Nepal says info they have is that everyone is safe.
  • The Khumbu Icefall will remain open until 3rd June.

Alpine Ascents

“We didn’t make it to the Top of the World this year unfortunately but we gave it our best!

“Challenging year for many reasons but thankfully in the end it wasn’t COVID that stopped us but ultimately was the weather as happens on many expeditions in mountaineering!”

Anni Penttila

“We have had to wait three days to return to Kathmandu from the base camp due to snowfall. Helicopters are not flying because of bad weather, and thoughts have been on the side of those waiting for evacuation in Second Camp.

“However, we have had a nice time in the base camp.

“I have been really lucky to have had the best support teams in the world at home throughout the Everest project. All in all, the whole trip has included many unfortunate moments with injuries, losses and the will to leave has been tested many times before the trip.

Alaa Aljuneidi

“Unfortunately today we decided to cancel our trip to climb Everest summit due to the dangers because of the unpredictable weather and the call from the Nepali government to cancel all expeditions on the mountain and all climbers to go down to save their lives.

“We did all that we can and we reached 8000m but the weather change was the reason to go back and wait for another window that it seems it is not coming soon.

“Safety first, and after 2 months in the mountain I miss home and my family and friends.”

Climbalaya Treks and Expeditions

“Update from base camp 28 May 2021 @ 10am: Heavy snow at base camp and above. As reported Cyclone Yaas is going to hit the Everest regions for another 2 days and weather opening above camp 2 is expected tomorrow.

“How the conditions are for a safe climbing above camp 2 will have to be accessed. Matt, Emil, Nima, Christine , Pascal ,Yves and our Sherpa team are waiting at camp2 and are healthy and in good spirits.”

Colin O’Brady

“Nope…not going anywhere again today. This cyclone from the Bay of Bengal is still creating major problems here on Everest.

“Life at Camp 2 today consisted of digging out my tent from feet of snow drift, listening to the wind and snow batter my tent endlessly, and nearly getting blown over when I stepped outside to try and use the bathroom.

“Despite all of that my morale remains high. I’ve weathered many storms in my life and inevitably they all end and the sun eventually comes out. Onward!”

Dawa Steven Sherpa

“2021 has been the most difficult Everest season in my entire climbing career. As with many other expedition teams, most of my team and myself were denied passage to the top this year by Goddess Miyolangsangma. As if climbing to the highest point on earth isn’t hard enough, we had to deal with a Covid outbreak and two cyclones.

“As the season comes to a wrap in just a few days time, I pray for everyone still here on the mountain for a safe descent and a safe trip home.

“If a few summits are still achieved before that then it would be a happy end to a stressful season.”

Francois Trouillet

“Cyclone Yaas got the better of our expedition. Our 3 colleagues stranded at camp 2 go back down to base camp.”

“Expedition cancelled.”

Garrett Madison

“It’s still snowing here in Everest base camp, cyclone Yaas has made a direct hit on the #Himalayas, making it challenging for us to pack up our camp. Most of our climbers are trekking down or already back in Kathmandu. Some other teams are up at camp 2 (now in deep snow) hoping for an opportunity to summit post cyclone…I hope it works out for them.”

Jenn Drummond”

“I know it can be confusing to follow what I’m doing and where I am since our plans can change so quickly! SO the plan! (…as of now!) is to move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 and Camp 4 over the next couple of days, and after that is the final summit push of Mt Everest!”

Kaitu Expedition

“We are very proud of our Everest 2021 team. Congratulations to everyone!!! 10 out of 15 members achieved their goal to stand on top of Everest along with their super sherpa team. We are honored beyond words to be part of their dream and hope. Some of them couldn’t make it to 8848.86m but achieved their highest elevation ever in life which is already a big achievement.

“Thankyou and Congratulations to the entire Kaitu Expedition family for yet another uneventful Everest Expedition. Everyone one is safe and sound in one piece just the way they left before the climb.”

Khadija Turki

“My last day at Everest and few hours before evacuation. This season proved to be a tough one. I had to endure conditions and situations I never faced before starting from the weather conditions all the way to the virus. Though I’ve been to 8000m before, what we went through this season is beyond that!

“Everything happens for a reason and I hope the reason will revel itself soon!!!”

Leonardo Avezzano

“After several days of waiting and watching we made the decision to pull the plug and focusing on the next steps of our adventures. Here the main reasons:

“It seems that monsoon is already here: the weather has changed dramatically, is snowing like hell, it’s humid, exposing a future attempts to avalanches. A wise man said once “the last word belongs to the mountain”, we accept it, we respect it and we bow to it.

“Unfortunately the events of the last summit bid up, where we had to stop at 8000 meters for logistical problems, have drained our mental and physical energy. Spending 100 hours above 7000 meters in the is something that not everyone can tell. Nevertheless we’ve never stop smiling and climbing.

“We summit mountains making one good decision after another, decisions made between the climbers and the support team at lower camps. A lot of strange things happened, unfortunately the operation team didn’t work as support partner on our adventure (more info will follow).

“I’m proud of Alaa Juneidi to have faced this adventure with good spirit, strength and integrity. He’s been fighting for his dream and his country Palestine, meanwhile bombs where hitting Gaza, the promise made to his father and the promise made to all the dreamers who supported him all the way to the top. I’m privileged to have been supported by Mostafa Salameh , who’s been supporting us regardless the big problems with Tag Nepal team.

“We go back home with a lot of learnings and memories, strong to have invested 100% and beyond to climb this mountain and the one we’ve inside us. Nature might be harsh but is candid and authentic.

“I can’t wait for the next steps of our adventure.”

Ministry of Tourism for Nepal

“In view of the unforeseen and sudden changes in the weather and the damage caused by adverse weather conditions, we have asked the trekking operators to keep their climbers and mountain guides and other allies safe.

“As requested earlier, the department has received information that all climbers and mountaineers and other helpers involved in the climb are still safe at the base camp and the second base camp.

“The department has received information that no climbers, mountaineers and other helpers are in distress and need to be rescued and the condition of the places is still normal.

“This will have a positive impact on the families of climbers and mountaineers and all other helpers.”

Mountain Professionals

“After successfully summiting Everest on May 23rd, the Mountain Professionals team headed back down to Base Camp and arrived safely on the 25th. They’re now all packed up, well-fed, and enjoying plenty of beer and festivities at a much more comfortable altitude. Rather than hiking all the way back down to Lukla, they’ll be chartering a quick and scenic helicopter ride back to Kathmandu.”

“Unfortunately, Tropical Cyclone Yaas has made it to the Himalayas, so it’s been snowy and overcast at EBC since the team arrived. The team continues to wait for the storm to subside and will depart for KTM when it’s safe to do so.

“Congrats again to all of our team members this season, and especially to the guides, Sherpa staff, and everyone else who made this adventure possible. We appreciate you and couldn’t do it without your support!”

Prakash Kharel – Everest ER

“It’s so disheartening to see few climbers pushing themselves and their team for summit despite the terrible weather and warnings from ministry .

“Please listen to Mother Nature and prevent the mishap.”

Sagamartha Pollution Control Committee

“We would like to inform all expedition groups that the closing date for Khumbu Icefall Route for this climbing season has been further extended till 3rd June 2021.

“This decision has been made in consultation with the Department of Tourism (DoT) and Expedition Operator’s Association (EOA) considering the adverse weather conditions in Everest Region due to the effect of Cyclone Yaas.

“We request all expedition teams at base camp and camp II to remain safe.”

Seva Gorlach

“We gave it everything and then some! Getting back up to South Col. after being there 10 days before in terrible weather conditions was the toughest thing, both mentally and physically, I have ever done. It has changed me in ways that are difficult to put into words.

“On the 26th of May, after already having spent our second night in the death zone (with a Sherpa who had passed away in the tent next to us), we set off on our summit push. Tshering and I both felt physically strong and in a way excited to make our way to the top. The wind hadn’t eased up but we were optimistic that it would improve higher up. The only other team on South Col decided not to go that evening so it was only the two of us heading up. Tshering and I made a pact before we headed out into the night – he would not to leave me up there and I made him and my family a promise to listen to him 100% if the weather was such that we had to turn around. So when he turned to me after a couple of hours and said it is not safe, we have to go back, there was no arguing. I turned around immediately.

“Looking at the weather the next day, had we continued we would not have come back down.”

Summit Climb

“All 20 of us remain pinned down in basecamp by driving wind blowing horizontal curtains of blasted snow chunks/flakes, steady drumroll of whipping prayer flags + flapping nylon.

“We may feel nervous here in bc, but can you imagine what is happening in the camps above us?

“We say our prayers for them as we listen to roaring low base notes of 1 million tons fresh heavy wet snow peeling off rock and ice face above us, avalanche boiling down onto moraine beside our tents, stopping there…For now.

“Today a Sherpa tells us Camp 3 was pulverised by an avalanche sweeping the Lhotse Face. All other teams take note: If you need it, we are here to help.

“Our team is dividing into 4 groups: 1) those who want to walk down now 2) those who want to wait and helicopter 3) those who want climb up and retrieve our gear 4) those who want to wait for yaks on 31 May.”