There was an Andalucian team on Nanga Parbat this Summer.
Manuel Gonzalez, Sergio Carrascosa – ‘‘Ama Dablam Club’ – were going for the Messner/ Revol route on the World’s 9th highest peak.
Enrique Osiel and Carlos Santofe pulled out of the expedition late on, which was been hit by poor weather throughout the early stages.
With the weather not improving the lads made a wise choice to end their climb by July 10th.
Summary from ‘Ama Dablam Club’ HQ:
“Andalusian climbers, Sergio and Lolo, abandon the climb of the Nanga Parbat.
Lolo and Sergio resumed the climb along the Messner route of the Diama Glacier on Monday, 5, again with an uncertain weather forecast, soon to be confirmed with new snowfall, turning the mountain into an avalanche maze on 7 and July 8th.
On July 6, the Andalusian cordada rose again to 5.500 meters high, delving into the Intermediate Glacier, until finding a crack in the ice that prevented them from passing, being forced to retreat. Climbers acknowledge that the day was very tough, due to the need to reopen the entire footprint, for a ground even more loaded with snow than the previous time, when they managed to open the whole half-slope leading to the glacier.
The snowfall that began on the 6th in the afternoon, immobilized the cordada on the 7 field, to return to activity on July 8, but already with serious doubts about the possibilities to continue the climbing. So, when they arrived at the 5.500 meter material depot, they decided to definitely abandon the climb.
For Sergio are several main reasons for making such a difficult decision: ′′ First, permanent weather instability, which has given us 6 days of good weather in 29 stay at Camp Base, and second, as a result of this, the mountain and the route exhibit a large accumulation of snow, which we have suffered in the lower area and which should be greater in the high area, as you can see in the top trapeze from the Base Camp. acclimate to the height needed for a try to top with guarantees. Staying on the road, knowing the top is impossible, would be taking unacceptable risks “.
Lolo is contradicted and assumes that later his expeditions to 8,000ers, is the first time not exceeding 5.500 meters altitude: ′′ Never until now it had happened to me, we always exceed 7,000 meters in previous expeditions and on this occasion we have not been able, despite the effort and effort we put in. Weather and snow conditions have been decisive. On July 8th I spent fear returning to Camp 1, due to avalanches, some were too close. I think it was the best decision.
The Andalusians count as anecdote the surprise that the reaction of the staff of Campo Base, Ali and Ghani, who congratulated them on the decision to desist from the climb, expressing great joy for it while repeating that the mountain would still be there, for try again. Not this year.
The two climbers have dropped, between July 9 and July 10, all the material they had on the mountain to equip the height fields, with two heavy backpacks with more than 25 kilos. They plan to start the descent to Chilas on July 13 And the arrival in Andalucia on July 17, at the airport in Malaga.”
Bad weather has brought this expedition to a close…
“Sergio and Lolo tell us that they have managed to open the entire footprint, climbing the serac above Camp 1, to access the top of the Glacier Diama. Climate adversities persist, non-stop snowing, so they have returned to Camp 1 to rest and hope that in the next few the days weather improves.”
“We left towards C1! We have decided to go up, the weather is not the best but a window of good weather is foreseen between Wednesday and Thursday, with which we will try to go up to C2.”
“Lolo and Sergio have spent six long days at Base Camp (CB), enduring heavy rainfall that left the mountain loaded with snow. Today, first sunny day, they have stayed at Camp Base (BC), witnessing the numerous avalanches that have occurred. ′′ The most impressive one was yesterday afternoon, it started just 300 meters from the top and walked the whole wall “. Both climbers agree on the need to give this safety day, as the risk of existing avalanches is huge.
“After 23 days of expedition at the mountain base the climbers are frustrated by the little progression in altitude, due to the climate adversity. They are also aware of the lack of acclimatization they have and therefore face the next few days hoping that the weather will be favorable to them and they can perform a good stay at altitude, then importantly they can move safely to the top of 7,500 meters.
“If all goes well, they will do 8 days in higher altitude to acclimate up to at least 6.500 m.
“Sergio and Lolo, experienced climbers, know that they are at a crucial time on the expedition and that after so many bad days, they must have several favorable factors that allow them to have a chance:
1. May snow conditions improve. Now there’s plenty of snow all over the mountain.
2. May weather pass from permanent bad to a period of stability.
3. May athletes get good altitude adaptation.
“There’s a fourth component we’re sure they’re left over, motivation. Motivation they’ve been able to hold on to to date, in such an adverse situation.
Lolo recognizes that with this is 16th attempt to 8,000m and that never after so many days of Camp Base, he had failed to reach 6.000 m. ′′ I lived something similar when we ascended to Cho Oyu in the winter; it took us to take off, but in the end everything went well In addition to the isolation situation Sergio and I are experiencing, it also resembles the one we experience in that time. The big advantage is it’s not that cold “.
Lolo – “Hello, I’m still here! It has been a disaster so far this year!”
“At the Nanga Parbat Base Camp are climbers Sergio Carrascoso and Manuel Gonzalez (Lolo), who are rethinking their ascension logistics.
“Lolo and Sergio remain at the foot of the mountain as they have 21 days to try the top. As the team was reduced to two athletes, the Andalusian mountaineers have developed a new strategy, with options, to reach the top.”
“Today, July 1, they will climb to Camp 1 (C1), installed in what they call the Collado de las Needles (5.350 meters). From there, complete the glacier tour to the proximity of the 6.000 meters altitude, where they want to install a lightweight two-seater store like Camp 2 (C2). They will be placed in front of a serac that they must climb to continue to progress through the Superior glacier.
“Right now the main concerns for the climbers of the Ama Dablam Alpine Club is weather, very adverse in the 18 days they carry from Base Camp, and the massive amount of snow accumulated on the mountain.
“According to Lolo: ′′ If these two factors don’t improve these days, the mountain is winning the game. Sergio and I are doing the best we have, but if up there is as much snow as it seems, we are losing. There’s days left so we ain’t giving up. It’s a game.”
“We leave you a video sent by our colleagues from the Andalusian expedition to the Nanga Parbat, where they show us the hard days that have passed, from June 13 to 26 , due to bad weather, the collapse of the Base Camp and the snow difficulties.”
“We’re in Camp 1, and things are going relatively well, but the weather is giving us a lot of hard work. It’s day 12 of preparations and we are at base camp. We have been on the mountain several times already and found it in different conditions.
“There’s a lot of snow, a lot of bad weather but despite it we’re trying to move forward. This morning we managed to get to the col but it started getting very windy and with the snowfall and we had to retire again from there.
“Now it’s 5:18 pm, we’re waiting for dinner, morale is high, but we need the mountain to give us enough time to keep moving forward. Camp is about 5150 m approximately.
“I’m with Sergio. We hope that you get some images through the kitchen helper who makes this message.
“We hope tomorrow the weather will give us an entire day of good time to get back up and move forward “.
“The expedition of alpinists from the AMA DABLAN Alpine Club, led by Manuel González ‘Lolo’ is already in Base Camp.“ They are all well and installed in base camp. They also regret to be having so many problems with the satellite communication equipment due to lack of coverage, something that they are trying to solve and that means that little by little we can have more direct communications “, they indicate from the group’s communication area. The latest information confirms that in The last hours are in the stores, since it is snowing and the bad weather is with them. However, they have already been able to open the entire route to field one, at 5350 meters, a route that runs through a corridor that, right now, accumulates enough snow. “A hard job they are doing, when the weather gives them a little respite,” they say. The expedition members wait for the inclement weather to pass to continue the expedition and go h He went to field one.”