The 5 members of the ‘Ama Dablam Alpine Club’ expedition have arrived at the Nanga Parbat base camp and for now at least it seems they have the mountain to themselves.
Lolo González, Enrique Osiel, Íñigo Delgado, Sergio Carrascoso and Carlos M. Santafe , the members of the Andalusian expedition to Nanga Parbat organized by the Club Alpino Ama Dablam , from San Pedro de Alcántara, Málaga, have made it to base camp despite the complex travel situation in and around Pakistan right now.
The 5 of them, plus their cook and their kitchen assistant will not receive any further help, and they will open and equip the route themselves, all without the use of supplemental oxygen.
The intention is to find a new route of ascent to the higher areas of the Diamir slope, that avoid the risks of the normal route (Kinshofer). In summer, due to the increase in temperatures, there is a large movement of stones and ice, and the conditions get worse season after season. So they want to ascend the Diama glacier and explore a new alternative to reach the base of the mountain’s somital pyramid.
The primary idea is to combine the Messner route and the Elizabeth Revol route, with the possibility of connecting at the end with the Kinshofer. Posed like this, it is longer, and will probably require 4 high camps, but it is eminently glacial, so it is not exposed as much to seracs and possible avalanches.
As in these cases, until they explore and see the conditions they cannot fully decide. They are open to the best option they can find.
The expedition is part of a project that aims to in the next 3 years reach the only 3 8,000m peaks that have not yet been visited by the members of the Ama Dablam Alpine Club (Nanga Parbat, Shisha Pangma and Kanchenjunga).
They receive the support of the Marbella City Council under the San Pedro de Alcántara brand and the company La Línea Vertical.
Lolo González : With 5 8,000m peaks, and a few more attempts, he is the one who has the most experience at this height.
Enrique Osiel : High Mountain Guide, has managed to guide up to 6,000m. It is his second attempt at an eight thousand after the Dhaulagiri with Lolo.
Íñigo Delgado : He has been Enrique’s rope partner for years, and is a great alpine career.
Sergio Carrascoso : Very experienced mountaineer. He has participated in numerous expeditions to Nepal, the vast majority roped with Lolo. Sergio in his career has crowned important peaks such as Ama Dablam, in addition to attempts to peaks of 7000 meters, such as Pumori.
Carlos M. Santafé : Expeditionary arrived from Huesca, with a lot of experience in the mountains. He has a 7,000m to his credit: the Lenin Peak.