Daily Dispatches – 12th May
Rope Fixing Nears The Balcony, Teams Rotate Higher & Lhotse Sees First Summit
Everest season continued to gather momentum on Monday with major rope-fixing progress above the South Col, acclimatisation rotations across the mountain, and the first successful summit of Lhotse this season.
With favourable weather currently holding above Camp 4, the mountain is edging closer towards its first major summit wave of 2026.
Rope Fixing Push Continues Above Camp 4
Huge progress was made overnight as Sherpa teams pushed beyond the South Col towards the Balcony on Everest’s upper slopes.
The Imagine Nepal Team confirmed that ropes have now been fixed to just above the Balcony, with teams descending back to the South Col for a brief rest before another overnight push.
The Expedition Operators Association of Nepal (EOA) fixing team has now joined forces with Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks and Imagine Nepal in a coordinated effort to complete the summit route.
“The route on Everest has been fixed to a few meters above the Balcony.”
Imagine Nepal also stressed that despite recent speculation, relations between the teams remain positive.
“We did not want to take the lead, but we cannot miss this summit weather window.”
“We also had no intention of upsetting the fixing team as they have been doing a great job.”
The expedition praised the teamwork between operators during one of the most important phases of the season.
Teams Continue Acclimatisation Rotations
Across the mountain, teams continued rotating through Camps 1, 2 and 3 in preparation for summit bids.
The Climbing The Seven Summits Team confirmed several climbers reached Camps 1 and 2 today while Sherpas continued stocking Camp 4.
“All the teams are doing well, feeling healthy, moving strong, and the weather is good.”
Meanwhile, Madison Mountaineering climbers touched Camp 3 at 7,230m before descending back to Camp 2.
Expedition leader Garrett described the climb as valuable acclimatisation and technical preparation.
“It was a great climb up to Camp 3; fun climb, great views, good technical practice, good acclimatization.”
Several climbers remained overnight at Camp 3, including Reid, who is preparing for a no oxygen summit attempt later this season.
Climber Rich Draves also described his move through the Khumbu Icefall while descending from Camp 2 back to Base Camp.
“The trip was smooth and quick, except for contention at the major ladder crossing.”
He also reported seeing one of the increasingly used cargo drones operating above the Icefall carrying loads of up to 40kg.
South Col Acclimatisation For No-Oxygen Speed Climbers
Ecuadorian climber Karl Egloff revealed that he and his team successfully reached the South Col at nearly 8,000m without bottled oxygen during their acclimatisation rotation ahead of their Speed Record bid.
“It’s very tough to be in the Death Zone without using bottled oxygen, but it’s absolutely necessary to properly acclimatize for the big day.”
Egloff added that the South Col was completely empty during their visit.
“We feel privileged to have had the South Col all to ourselves without a single tent pitched.”
Puja Ceremonies Held Before Summit Pushes
Several teams also took part in traditional Puja ceremonies before heading higher on the mountain.
Irish climber Jason Black marked the occasion as part of what he says is the first full Irish Everest team in more than 20 years.
“The puja is one of the most important moments of any expedition.”
Fellow Irish climber Adam Sweeney also reflected on the importance of the ceremony.
“A moment to slow down, show respect to the mountain, and ask for safe passage before the climb ahead.”
First Lhotse Summit Of The Season
Away from Everest itself, Polish alpinist Bartosz Kacper Ziemski completed the first summit of Lhotse this season before skiing all the way back to Base Camp.
The remarkable ascent was completed solo in alpine style without Sherpa support.
The achievement means Bartosz has now summited and skied down five different 8,000m peaks.
Sadness After Young Sherpa’s Death
There was also sadness across the climbing community following news of the death of young climbing guide Phura Gyaljen Sherpa after a fall from Camp 3.
Phura, the grandson of legendary climber Ang Rita Sherpa — known as the “Snow Leopard” — was remembered as one of the next generation of Himalayan guides.
“Gone too soon.”
“A hardworking, humble, and passionate new generation mountain guide with a bright future ahead.”
Recovery & Rest At Lower Altitudes
Not all climbers remained high on the mountain today.
Cyclist-turned-climber Michael Woods confirmed he had returned to Namche Bazaar to recover after suffering food poisoning.
“I’m all good now, just focusing on recovering properly before heading back up.”
Meanwhile, climber Ari Khadka perhaps captured the mood of many teams on the mountain best:
“Frozen walls, icy breath, and sheer willpower. Every step is a battle—closer to the rooftop of the world.”
Looking Ahead
The next 24 hours could prove decisive on Everest.
With ropes now reaching above the Balcony and fixing teams preparing another overnight push, the summit route could soon be fully established — opening the door for the first major summit bids of the 2026 season.
