Daily Dispatches – 16th May
The summit window is opening wider, climbers are moving rapidly through the upper mountain, and across Everest the mood has shifted from anticipation to commitment.
But today’s biggest story involves one of Himalayan climbing’s most recognisable names.
Everest legend Kenton Cool has seen his original expedition plans dramatically change after client Tim Batsone became unwell lower down on the mountain. Both men descended and travelled back to Kathmandu, where Batsone has now decided to abandon his Everest attempt entirely and return home to the UK.
For most climbers, that would mark the end of the season.
Not Kenton Cool.
Instead, the British guide now plans to return to Everest Base Camp, reunite with elite Sherpa Dorji Gyaljen, and launch a new summit attempt in the coming days. Even by Everest standards, it is a remarkable reset midway through the season and keeps alive another chapter in Cool’s already extraordinary history on the mountain.
Higher up the mountain, teams are continuing to advance steadily through the camps as the key summit period approaches.
Adam Sweeney and his team reached Camp 2 after what he described as a brutally difficult climb. The team are now resting before pushing on toward Camp 3 as conditions continue to improve.
One of the most emotional updates of the day came from climber Michael Woods, who revealed he has been battling severe food poisoning during the most critical phase of the expedition. Woods explained that the illness has left him with ongoing stomach pain, but after discussions with his family he has decided to continue his summit attempt.
“I can’t promise a summit. All I can promise is that I’ll do my best and leave everything on the mountain.”
Woods added that he would still turn back if conditions worsened physically, but admitted the rapidly closing summit window meant this was likely his only opportunity.
The Climbing The Seven Summits expedition reported strong progress across all of its teams. Their Western Guided climbers have now reached Camp 3 in favourable weather and are positioning themselves for summit bids over the coming days. Additional private teams are moving toward Camp 2, while others at Base Camp are preparing to join the mountain after rest periods.
Importantly for the wider Himalayan season, attention has now also shifted toward Lhotse. Following the successful fixing of ropes to the summit of Everest earlier this week, the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal fixing team has now begun opening the route on the world’s fourth-highest mountain. Teams led by Ming Dorchi are carrying hundreds of metres of rope toward the upper camps as climbers prepare for combined Everest-Lhotse summit attempts.
More summit pushes were confirmed throughout the day.
The Elite Expeditions Team announced that their Team A has officially started its summit rotation after months of preparation and acclimatisation, while additional members are expected to follow shortly behind.
Indian climber Preeti Agrawal shared one of the most spiritual reflections of the season before leaving Base Camp, describing Everest as “the calling of the holy Mother, Goddess of the world.” Her planned summit schedule would place her on the summit around May 21 if weather conditions continue to cooperate.
Pakistani climber Shehla Sheikh also confirmed that tonight marks the beginning of her move toward the higher camps ahead of her own summit push.
Meanwhile, the Summit Force Expedition Team formally launched their 2026 summit campaign, highlighting the role of their 18 professional high-altitude guides supporting climbers during the ascent.
“The mountains demand respect and we arrive ready.”
Across Everest tonight, headtorches are once again snaking upward through the darkness of the Khumbu Icefall.
For many climbers, the next few days will determine whether years of preparation end in triumph, heartbreak, or the brutal reality that Everest so often delivers.
The mountain is entering its decisive phase.
