Daily Dispatches – 23rd May
After several days of historic summit traffic and huge crowds high on Everest, the mountain has finally begun to quieten down — but attention is now turning towards an entirely different kind of challenge on the world’s highest peak.
American mountain runner Tyler Andrews is preparing to launch one of the boldest attempts of the 2026 season as he targets the fastest ever ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. Andrews plans to leave Everest Base Camp at 8pm Nepal time on Saturday night and run through the darkness in an attempt to reach the summit early on Sunday morning.
If successful, Andrews also hopes to return all the way back down to Base Camp in the same push, potentially establishing the first recognised no-oxygen Fastest Known Time for both the ascent and descent combined.
The challenge comes after Andrews spent the past year preparing for the mountain, including a previous autumn attempt where he climbed above 8,000 metres before turning back. The American already holds more than 90 mountain speed records worldwide, including the speed record on Manaslu.
Everest’s speed climbing spotlight could soon become even more fascinating, with Ecuadorian mountain athlete Karl Egloff also expected to launch his own summit speed attempt once conditions settle further and the large summit teams fully clear the mountain. Egloff is expected to be supported by fellow runner Nicolas Miranda during the challenge.
At present, the fastest verified Everest Base Camp-to-summit ascent remains the astonishing 20-hour, 24-minute climb completed by Kaji Sherpa in 1998.
While the crowds on Everest have now dramatically reduced following the huge summit waves earlier this week, several teams are still positioned high on the mountain preparing for final summit pushes during the current weather window.
Furtenbach Adventures celebrated yet another highly successful summit day as members of their Classic Team and Signature FLASH Team reached the summit in near-perfect conditions. The company praised the teamwork and preparation that continues to define their rapid-expedition approach this season, with all climbers now safely descending back towards Camp 2.
Among the summiters was British climber James Jackson, alongside a large Sherpa support team including Pasang Tendi, Gelu Sherpa, Nima Tendi Sherpa and Lhakpa Dawa Sherpa.
Expedition High Mountain Team also confirmed another successful summit wave on Everest, with all members of their second-last summit group successfully standing on top of the world at 6:35am. The team included climbers and Sherpas from across Nepal and internationally, including veteran Sherpa climber Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, who celebrated his 16th Everest summit.
Elsewhere on the mountain, Elite Expedition Team confirmed that their Team B climbers are now preparing to move above Camp 2 following a short weather delay. The operator is currently targeting a summit push around May 26th as the final major summit groups of the season begin moving upwards.
Meanwhile, legendary climber Nimsdai Purja checked in from Camp 2 as he and his team continue their own summit push towards Everest.
Although the giant queues and extraordinary summit traffic of recent days appear to have passed, Everest remains extremely active high above the South Col. With stable weather continuing to hold, more summit bids are still expected over the coming days as the 2026 season enters its final major phase.
