Speed climbing record broken in Alps
A Record-Breaking Feat in the Swiss Alps: Alpinists Conquer the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau in 15.5 Hours
Swiss professional alpinist Nicolas Hojac (32) and Austria’s Philipp Brugger (33) have smashed a speed record that stood unchallenged for over two decades. The pair completed the legendary north faces of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau in just 15 hours and 30 minutes—nearly 10 hours faster than the previous benchmark. For perspective, amateur climbers typically require one to two days to ascend just the Eiger’s north face.
Reflecting on the achievement, Hojac described the experience as “completely surreal.” Their original plan was to complete the traverse in 19 to 21 hours—a daunting feat in itself. Crossing the finish line well ahead of schedule left them both in awe, reinforcing Hojac’s belief that “we’re often capable of more than we think.”
The iconic Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau stand as towering challenges in the Bernese Alps. The Eiger’s north face alone—a daunting 1,800-meter wall of limestone, snow, and ice—has long been the stage for dramatic ascents and alpine history.
A Nighttime Start to an Ambitious Journey
Their record-breaking push began at 1:00 AM on April 5, 2025, in total darkness. Hojac and Brugger set off up the Eiger’s north face, determined to beat the previous 25-hour record set by Ueli Steck and Stephan Siegrist in 2004. Equipped with headlamps, crampons, ice axes, and a 37-meter rope, they climbed the Heckmair route through the night. Their minimalist gear included layered clothing, a Gore-Tex jacket, and essential mountain boots and gloves.
Despite the dark and bitter cold, the duo found their rhythm immediately and reached the summit of the Eiger in just 5 hours and 43 minutes.
Although climbing without external support, the duo received vital help from fellow alpinist Adrian Zurbrügg, who had skied to the Eiger summit during the night to supply them with food and water.
Onward to the Mönch and an Unexpected Challenge
After a five-minute breather, Hojac and Brugger descended and moved toward the Mönch, climbing via the Lauper route. But at the Schulterstand (“shoulder stand”)—a notoriously difficult section—they discovered their rope sling was missing.
“It was only with creative techniques and teamwork that we were able to complete this section,” Hojac explained.
Having conquered two of the three faces, they descended to the Jungfraujoch for a brief stop, where Daniela Bissig and Erich Furrer, staff at the High Altitude Research Station, greeted them with French fries—their long-awaited reward.
After a 25-minute break, they launched into their final ascent: the 4,158-meter Jungfrau.
“We had broken a trail there three days earlier, so we made great progress,” said Brugger.
At 4:30 PM, the pair stood atop the Jungfrau summit, completing the legendary trilogy in 15 hours and 30 minutes—a new record and a major milestone in modern alpinism.
A Dream Realised After Years of Setbacks
This accomplishment was years in the making. Hojac and Brugger first attempted the one-day ascent in 2022, successfully summiting the Eiger but halting after the Mönch due to Brugger’s health. Subsequent attempts were thwarted by poor conditions. Their eventual success is a testament to perseverance, resilience, and an unwavering belief in their goal.
“It was a really emotional moment for me,” Brugger shared. “We’ve been dreaming about this project for over a year. I had a perforated bowel not long ago. I never imagined I’d be standing on the Jungfrau with Nico just a year later.”
