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DiariesEverest 2023

Everest 2023 Updates – 24th April


Updates from 24th April from those aiming to climb high on Everest in 2023 


Today’s Everest News

A team led by climate scientist Baker Perry from Appalachian State University will carry out essential maintenance on the world’s highest weather station at the Bishop Rock (8810m) as well as other stations including one installed at the Balcony area (8,430 m).Six automatic weather stations were installed during the Perpetual Planet Extreme expedition on Mt Everest organised by National Geographic Society. Weather stations were installed at the Bishop Rock (8,810m), Balcony area (8,430 m) and South Col (7,945 m), Camp II (6,464 m), Everest Base Camp (5,315 m) and Phortse (3,810 m).



Madison Mountaineering

“Today our first wave of climbers here in Nepal moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). They plan to spend two nights at Camp 2, and then return to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). That will complete their first acclimatization rotation! The’ve had great conditions so far. They had particularly good climbing conditions two days ago when the moved to Camp 1 up through the Khumbu Icefall. They were essentially the only team in the icefall that night, which made for really pleasant, smooth climbing without any lines!

Meanwhile, our second wave of climbers just left base camp. They hiked down to the village of Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) today, and tomorrow they’ll move up to the Lobuche high camp, and then hopefully summit Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) the following day. They spent the last two days practicing their technical skills here on the ice towers next to base camp.”



Stefi Troguet

The weather hasn’t been the best these days. It’s been snowing & it’s been VERY cold!!
But even so, we haven’t stopped.
We’ve walked on the Khumbu Glacier, we’ve done more practice with the gear & today we’ve climbed to the Pumori High Camp (5.650m).
To be honest, it was great! I was feeling a bit weak lately, but this climb, gaining a bit of altitude, gave me a lot of energy!
Countdown for the first acclimatisation rotation!


Andy Blatecky

Feeling much more confident about moving up. Still on for Wednesday evening to camp 1.

Only 10,000 vertical feet left to climb!


Tom Cleary

Before I came to Nepal I made sure I fully understood the reasons for why I climb. Coming home safely was of utmost importance, with or without a summit. Yes there was a record there, but I climbed for the love of mountaineering and the outdoors.

In the middle of my expedition I made one of the most difficult decisions of my life & called an end to my Everest expedition this year.

There were so many reasons that brought me to this conclusion, the ultimate factor coming down to safety on the mountain.

The mountain will always be there & there is only 1 of me.

I want to thank everyone that has helped me get to where I am now & I appreciate all the support I have received in the last year with preparations for this trip! It wasn’t my year but I’m alive and able to replan and tackle it again.




Hari Budha Magar

As I prepare on the mountain and reflect on my journey, I feel incredibly lucky to have found such wonderful organisations who believe in my short-term goal to summit Everest but my longer-term legacy to help change perceptions around disability.

I would like to say a huge thank you to global component distributor, Astute, for their support and encouragement.

As I push myself to my limits over the coming weeks, I hope to continue to inspire and motivate others and show a positive mindset really can change adversity



Dr Jon Kedrowski

A lot has happened the past few days, and a lot of fun happens in the Himalayas when you are off the grid. For now we have settled into Basecamp at 17,495’. The food is good, the staff is amazing, and the snow has been falling. Acclimatization processes include some trips to neighboring peaks so more in that soon. For now, time for some R&R before we head into the icefall in a few days.



Everest In Sharing

Marc Batard, accompanied by Vincent Gouyet, Gérard Menard and Jean-Marc Demoz, is on his way to Everest with the aim of finalizing the equipment for the new “Teamwork Marc Batard” route.

This new, less dangerous route will avoid the icefall where several climbers died. Recently, 3 Sherpas lost their lives there. This crucial project could save hundreds of lives.



Rohan Freeman

Spent the day recovering from yesterday’s climb up to SPCC4 and trying to resolve my internet issues.

I was still tired from the effort yesterday and was low energy to start the day. After breakfast, I slept most of the morning right up until lunch. My appetite and energy picked up as the day progressed and by dinner time I was ravenous. Thankfully dahl baht was on the menu and I had a copious serving.

The afternoon was spent re-rigging my climbing harness, jumar and safety with newer ropes and a slightly better system. Hopefully we don’t have to adjust it in the icefall.

Sujan and I will leave at 3 AM for our 1st rotation so to Camp 1, so a good chunk of the afternoon was spent packing food and clothes and getting things done.