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DiariesEverest 2023

Everest 2023 Updates – 7th May


Updates from 7th May from those aiming to climb high on Everest in 2023 



Madison Mountaineering

Today our “second wave” of Everest and Lhotse climbers were in Camp 2! They climbed part way up the Lhotse face toward Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), and then returned back down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) at the head of the Western Cwm. Tomorrow, they plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft), and that will wrap up their acclimatization rotation. They’ve spent two nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and three nights at Camp 2 as of tomorrow.

Meanwhile, our “first wave” of Everest–Lhotse climbers are down here in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We flew down here yesterday morning from base camp. It was a beautiful helicopter flight, and since then, we’ve been enjoying hot showers, eating good food and sucking up all the extra oxygen down here, which feels great! So, we’re just resting and biding our time, recuperating for our summit push which is still a little ways off. Right now we’re waiting for high winds to ease on the upper mountain so that our Sherpa team can carry oxygen and other supplies up as high as the South Col (7900m/25,919ft), and then we’ll start looking for a summit window.

Our Nuptse climbers moved up to high camp at the foot of the route this afternoon. They’re currently resting in high camp and preparing for a summit attempt that will start late tonight. Most of the route is fixed, and if the weather permits, then our climbers and our rope-fixing team will complete the route to the summit tomorrow morning.



SummitClimb Team

Hi this is David from a sunny Namche Bazaar. We continue the recuperation process , which mainly involves eating a lot, a lot of the time. Dinner is in the delightful Eat Smart restaurant with excellent food and excellent hygiene , some of the team have ventured safely onto the freshly prepared salads , health giving and tasty. There are lovely day walks off the main trail with very few trekkers, these will keep us occupied between eating.



Stefi Troguet

It’s been 6 days since I came down from the high altitude camps.
It’s been very windy, so not 2nd rotation yet.
This morning we decided to move our bodies & make a quick ascent to Pumori High Camp.
The views there are spectacular



Richard Walker

Today is a rest day.



Andy Blatecky

After our rest day in camp 1, we were feeling good and so we trekked higher up the Western Cwm and settled into our tents at Camp 2, at approx 21,000ft. It’s this day where the weather starts to become difficult with cold, snow, and wind for the foreseeable future.



Vincere Zeng

It’s incredible how commercial expedition has developed into standard luxury services. We even have a separate Chinese kitchen!

Despite all well-considered services, our physical sufferings were real.. 2 nights at camp 2, I coughed myself up whenever I fell asleep, so basically not much sleep at night.. it was such a relief for me on the day we descended to BC.. no headache though, which was a positive note.

I wasn’t sure if it was because I have already caught Covid or it was just Khumbu cough, but didn’t feel good. The 4-day rotation felt like a life rotation…

Nonetheless, I did have great fun exploring the route from BC-Lhotse wall, and felt the real Everest. My teammates are all saying they are tired and don’t wanna go back to Khumbu, but I’m actually excited and looking forward to it

No rush, but eventually.



Climbing The Seven Summits Team

Our entire Everest and Lhotse team has now descended back to base camp or below after tagging camp 3, minus Kirstie and Anup along with Martin and Mingma Dorjee, who are safely relaxing at Camp 2. With high winds predicted on the summit for the coming days we’re in a holding pattern. That means showers, acclimatization hikes, more training/ice climbing, matinees in the movie dome, a table tennis tournament tomorrow and passing the time reading books, drinking coffee and preparing for our summit bids. This part of the expedition takes a bit of patience but there’s lots to do here to keep us busy



Julie McKelvey

Back at Everest Basecamp & feeling amazing.

Winds on the mountain not cooperating with getting my long rotation done so the days are spent doing training and acclimitization hikes. Hopefully in the next few days I’ll be on my way back . I can’t wait to see how it feels to go thru the Icefall with a healthy body and lungs

Every expedition to date has come with unexpected big obstacles so this isn’t anything new for me. It’s just more opportunity for growth when I choose look at it that way

Everyone is in a holding pattern due to weather and the ropes are still not fixed to the summit. There’s still plenty of time to get this done – I won’t be in the first summit group for sure which is actually a relief There are a thousand people here with all rotations done who are anxious and will push at the first possible chance – I’m not interested in that potential nightmare but I also 🙏🏻 there’s more than one summit window this year and most years there is.

This last 40% of the expedition is the hard part physically and more so mentally for everyone. It’s a waiting game and the plan changes daily based on Mother Nature and what the Mountain says. My job is to stay healthy, positive, grateful and ready for whatever comes next – some days that’s easier than others!



Pega Sherpa

We are back to Base camp safe and sound after acclimating two nights at Camp I and another two more nights at Camp II touching the Lhotse face in between.

The whole lhotse face looks pretty dry this season specially the route below the yellow bend. Frequent rock falls and solid blue ice has made the face more challenging in comparison to last few years.

Half of the expedition teams are eagerly waiting for the summit push at the base where the summit route still needs to be fixed whilst others are continuing with their rotations as usual. Hopefully we will have a clear window sooner for the summit route and the summit!



Kami Rita Sherpa

Conquering Lobuche was just the beginning. Now, with acclimatization on our side, we stand at the threshold of Everest’s grand challenge.

The summit awaits, and now ready to guide from the frontline and push our limits and embrace the mightiest peak of all.



7 Summits Club

Yesterday, our team, having completed the 2nd acclimatization rotetion, flew to Namche Bazaar for a rest. Here, at an altitude of 3600 meters, we have planned to spend 4 nights. Everything that was and will be in Namche will remain in Namche.



Gelje Sherpa

Back from Camp 4

We spent over 24 hours continuously walking from c2 – c4 and back to BC to deposit oxygen for our clients. It was incredibly tough, but the way to camp, compared to other 8000ers is very nice.

We will now take some rest here at basecamp and wait for the next weather window to go back