Monday, May 27, 2024
Broad PeakK2

Karakorum Expeditions – K2 / Broad Peak Updates

Led by Mirza Ali the Karakorum Expeditions Team were the largest outfitter on K2 and Broad Peak this year.

They led the rope fitting and camp setting duties and had a huge presence on these two peaks all summer.

Unfortunately things didn’t work out as planned as we show in this diary of events…

26th July

“Our team recovered the body of the legendary Rick Allen from the glacier near ABC, last night , after consulting with his family and friends, the Legend will be buried this morning under the foot of Mighty K2!

“Meanwhile, due to the high risk of avalanches up on the mountain and lack of coordination between the expedition teams, our expedition on K2 is over! Details of the events on Broad peak and K2 will be shared soon!”

25th July

“Dear friends and family we are devastated to announce that our very dear friend and Legendary Scottish Climber Rick Allen died in an unfortunate avalanche while attempting a New route alpine style on the southeast face of K2 with Jordi Tosas and Stephan Keck.

“Rick has been an international and strong climber throughout his life! We had the honour to serve him on his expeditions with us!

“We at Karakorum Expeditions Extend our heartfelt condolences to the family and friends of Rick!

“Stephan and Jordi are fine, army aviation helicopters are undertaking the rescue mission, Stephan and Jordi have been brought down from the mountain via longline, to base camp.

“Our sincere thank you to @globalrescue for their prompt action in rescuing Jordi and Stephan from the dangerous wall and the Pakistan army aviation pilots amazing work!

“Rest in peace, Rick!”

24th July

Karakorum Expeditions K2 summit push is underway!

“Jenn Drummond and her team arrived at camp 2, Samina Baig and some other clients are at camp 1

“Jordi, Stephan Keck and Rick Allen are attempting a new route on K2 south-east face!

“Due to storms and high winds our tents at camp 1, camp 2 and 3 are destroyed, we have re-established new tents at C1, C2 and hope tomorrow at c3.

“Fotis Theocharis is attempting Broad Peak.

“Hope all goes well.

“Please do keep the entire team in your prayers.”

20th July

“Karakorum Expeditions joint Pakistan International expedition 2021, following are the summiters
1. Jalal Uddin ( rope fixing team ) 
2. Eid Muhammad(Rope fixing team) 
3. Faryad Karim (Rope fixing team)
4. Fahad Badar 
5. Saeed Al Memari 
6. Bulbul Karim 
7. Ilyas 
8. Inayat Ali 
9. Stephan Keck “

18th July

“Deep snow is making the progress towards the Broad Peak summit very slow, many people abandoned the summit, after reaching the V our fixing team and some clients are still trying to reach the summit, it’s very deep snow and already late for the summit…!”


“Breaking! Rope Fixing Team summit Broad Peak at 3pm PST
Superstar fixing team Jalal Uddin, Eid Muhammad and Faryad Karim
“These three boys worked for nearly 24hours breaking the trail fixing rope very proud moment!
“More client’s on the way to the summit! Will update the names soon! Please do pray for the safe return!”

17th July

“I have been monitoring the Broad Peak rope fixing team since yesterday. In the evening Korean team / Pakistani support team/guides/HAPs fixed around 300metres above camp 3, since 11pm only 3 of Karakorum Expeditions boys breaking waist-deep snow!”

1. Eid Muhammad
2. Jalal Uddin
3. Faryad Karim
Supported by
1. Saeed Karim
2. Inayat Ali

“The team are now just above the big cravesse. Five independent climbers including Lotta Hintsa joined them now. Hope they may help in breaking the trail till the V!”


“So our boys ploughing through deep snow fixing ropes just below the V for almost 12hours retreated to camp 3, there was no support, no piece of ropes from any other team except the Korean team who fixed 300meters above camp 3, and some 200 meters fixed by lotta and don @karakorumexpeditions reorganised at camp 3 and going for the summit tonight! The first team will open the V and then to summit, second-team with clients! ! The fixing team and clients are on the move toward the summit! Please keep your fingers crossed.”

16th July

“The Karakoram Expeditions rope fixing team arrived at BP camp 3 around 11am. The Korean team also arrived at camp 3. We have a seven-member rope fixing team, there will be four members from Korean team to join our team to fix ropes to the summit.

“Many other teams are going to camp 3, we will see what is their plans are, either they will follow our team track and use our rope or will assist in rope fixing!
We have brought up 1000meters of rope and the Koreans have 400meters of rope.
We will try to fix the rope to the summit!

“Rope fixing team
Jalal Uddin (team leader)
Eid Muhammad (deputy lead)
Faryad Karim
While supported by
Inayat Ali
Younis Ali
Saeed Karim
Muhammad Ali

“While our clients are resting at camp 2, tomorrow morning will arrive at camp 3 and then in the evening continue to the summit, a total of 8 clients and 13 local high altitude staff/guides and two IFMG. At the moment Karakoram Expeditions has 30 members including, foreign client’s, ifmg, local high altitudes guides and a rope fixing team.

“The rope fixing team will give a chance to independent climbers to open the route till the V today if they are willing to work if they don’t, our team will start the rope fixing tonight at 11PM and try to reach the summit tomorrow depending on the snow conditions!”

15th July

“Finally, the Karakorum Expeditions rope fixing team left to fix ropes to the summit from camp 3. The team will spend a night at camp 2 and then head out for the hard job.

The lead climbers
1. Jalal Uddin (team leader)
2. Eid Muhammad (deputy lead)
3. Ahmed Baig (budding beast of Karakorum)
4. Faryad Karim (brilliant)
While supported by
5. Inayat Ali
6. Younis Ali
7. Saeed Karim

“The team will be joined by Don Bowie and Lotta Hintsa

“The team aims to fix the ropes to the summit on Saturday 17th July 2021 and on 18th July our clients!”

13th July

“Right now descending from camp 2 of Broad Peak, snow storm coming!”

11th July

“Had a great day up on Camp 2 of Broad Peak on my birthday

“My team Karakorum Expeditions fixed ropes till camp 3 on 9th July, established camp 3, the fixing team consist of
The lead climbers
1. Jalal Uddin (team leader)
2. Eid Muhammad (deputy lead)
3. Ahmed Baig (budding beast of Karakorum)
4. Faryad Karim
While supported by
5. Inayat Ali
6. Ghulam Abbass
7. Basharat Hussain
8. Younis Ali
9. Saeed Karim

“Yesterday 10th July we established camp 3 on K2.

1. Akber Hussain
2. Ahmed Hussain
3. Basharat
4. Ghulam Abbass

“While four clients are acclimatising on Broad Peak Camp 3 and some are resting at base camp. We are aiming for the 16th July Broad Peak summit if the weather permits!”

10th July

“I am very proud of my Karakorum Expeditions rope fixing team for fixing the rope on K2 camp 2 and then on 9th July fixing the rope to camp 3 on broad peak.  Ahmad, a 21yr old Pakistan star climber helped in fixing the famous house chimney. We are aiming for 16th July for Broad Peak summit! If weather permits!!”

9th July

“Today our team has fixed rope till camp 3 of Broad Peak, the team will start fixing rope till camp 3 of K2 tomorrow.!
We are looking forward to a great season!”

4th July

“Very satisfying!!!
K2 rope fixing team in very challenging weather conditions have fixed rope till camp 2. The team started at 8am this morning, despite heavy fresh snow, from Camp 1. The team continued the hard job and by 4pm they fixed rope to camp 2!

“It’s truly remarkable job done in this very extremely bad weather conditions .
The lead climbers
1. Jalal Uddin (team leader)
2. Eid Muhammad (deputy lead)
3. Ahmed Baig (budding beast of Karakorum)
4. Faryad Karim (brilliant)
While supported by
5. Inayat
6. Abbass
7. Basharat

“The Karakoram Expeditions team are working independently on both mountains and on Broad Peak the team established Camp 2 and are back to base camp!

“As leader of the joint Pakistan-international expedition feeling very proud of the work these young guys did and looking forward to a great season!”

3rd July

“Karakoram Expeditions Base Camp is almost complete only two members to join by the second week of July. Last night we had a nice meeting with our expedition members and high altitude support staff /guides. We have twelve clients, two IFMG guides and twenty-three local high altitudes support staff/guides. The weather forecast seems good with little precipitation and no wind, both the #K2 rope fixing team and Broad Peak rope fixing team headed out this morning, to open route to camp 2 on K2 and up to black pyramid if weather permits, similarly our Broad Peak rope fixing team aims to open Camp 2 and then to camp 3.”

“K2 rope fixing team consist of

1. Jalal Uddin
2. Eid Muhammad
3. Ahmed Baig
4. Faryad Karim
5. Inayat
6. Basharat
7. Abass
Broad Peak rope fixing team
1. Akber
2. ali Muhammad
3. Liaqat Karim
4. Afrin Shah
5. Waqar Ali
6. Ishaq Ali
7. Rizwan Dad
8. Abass Hushe

“Our expedition members are taking their first rotations on K2 and Broad Peak Camp 1 . Please keep the team in your prayers.”

2nd July

“Our third group arrived at K2 Base Camp, weather has been bad. There is no progress on the mountains! Tomorrow if weather permitting Karakorum Expeditions team will resume the work on both mountains.”

1st July

“Our team established camp 1 on Broad Peak! After setting camp 1 on K2! Tomorrow the team A is heading to establish camp 2 and will monitor the weather and push towards camp 3.”


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