Thursday, June 13, 2024
Everest 2024

Everest Updates – 2nd May

 

Updates on 2nd May from those aiming to climb high on Everest in 2024

 

 

SummitClimb Team

“Hi this is David from camp 2 . We have a lovely camp site with no through traffic. It seams almost just us with the huge Lhotse face above. Yesterday the wind was a constant roar of whipping tent nylon caused by the steady 50kmph wind. Today is much calmer and the team have hiked higher to gain further acclimatization.”

Kenton Cool

“Rotation up to Camp 2 is done.
A great few days up high on the hill, fantastic to introduce the ‘Twins’ to the beautiful Western Cwm of Everest!
As ever we were escorted by the amazing Dorjee!”

Hugo Ayaviri

“I’m on my second acclimatization rotation. I’ve climbed back up to camp 2 at 6400m. I’m getting ready to climb to camp 3 at 7200m. Then to camp 4 at 7900m. Then I’ll head back down to base camp for a rest before the final push to the summit. Yesterday, strong winds destroyed the tents at Camp 2, but today the weather is calmer. Carrying my gear without the help of a porter is very difficult, but I’m staying focused on my goal.”

Frank Loke

“Honestly, I’m struggling now! The body has not recovered because of. a cold and i generally have little energy. No headache and sleeping so well, but the batteries are empty. Tomorrow is very decisive on whether it goes well… Damn the head wants but the body doesn’t listen. Possibly the body isn’t ready to go higher than Camp 3 this rotation, where I’ll have to go back down to Base Camp to properly recharge. I don’t have to pull up in the first weather window and that’s not abnormal mtp. that this is only the first rotation in the mountain, but I wish I was stronger. I saw it in Tsering’s eyes – he lost faith a little today. Otherwise there are many who struggle with their hands. The cold wind makes it impossible to wear gloves, so polka dots are the only alternative. The problem is that the polar mites are difficult to climb, so more clients are already struggling with frost damage.”

Rhett Evans

“I’m hoping the wind dies down and it’s not as cold… Last night it got down to -11 here at EBC…
Here’s the plan for the next four days: We’ll start climbing up and through the Khumbu Ice Fall tonight around 2:00 AM. We will use headlamps and travel when the temperature is at its coldest. This helps minimize any ice bridges collapsing or large seracs breaking loose from the mountain. This picture shows the lower half of the ice fall as seen from Base Camp. There is still twice as much to climb at the top of this photo. It will require roughly 2000’ feet of vertical climbing before we reach Camp I at 19,500’. We will spend the rest of the day at Camp I and sleep there to help with our acclimation. The next morning we will proceeded to Camp II, climbing to 21,500’. If all is going well we will spend the night at Camp II and set out the next morning with a goal of getting just below Camp III at 23,500’ before turning back and spending another night at Camp II. The Route from C2 to C3 requires climbing the Lhotse Face, to the South Col. We will be clipped into a fixed line at all times to avoid falling as the Lhotse Face is a steep wall of hard packed ice that holds Camp III just above it. Climbing the Lhotse Face will be a big challenge. The angle can be very steep. By steep, I mean 40 to 50 degrees. After sleeping another night at C2 we will descend all the way back down to EBC to recover. It’s getting even more real!”

Rajan Dwivedi

“My rotation on Mt. Everest is successfully completed! I’m feeling quite nice and positive after acclimatization drill to the Lhotse face (6,800m/22,300ft) right below the Camp 3. I climbed down to EBC yesterday afternoon from C2. Crossing Khumbu Icefall is always tricky! Today I am in Namache Bazaar (3400m/11,000ft) for rest and recovery.

Currently, the fixed line is set from EBC (crampon point) till Camp 4 (South Col). Once rope is fixed from the Camp 4 to the summit, I will go back to EBC and wait for the weather window to mount my summit bid. I will climb the whole mountain again and this time all the way to the summit. Our Sherpa staff has been phenomenal in leading and decision making. Currently they are busy with the logistics of camp sites at C3, C4 and placing food, fuel, supplemental O2 to support our mission.”

Rohann Freeman

“Sujan and I ventured into the icefall up to Camp 2 today, our first of many forays. I have been hearing all sorts of stories about the icefall, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. We took our time making our way through. It was nice to get to Camp 2.
Today was mostly about getting our gear right, familiarize ourselves with the icefall. After some boot modifications and crampon adjustments, we were dialed in. We want to be efficient at the right times. We enjoyed the scenery of basecamp and Pumori while plodding our way through and around ice seracs. The steps and motions all came back pretty quickly. It was a productive day. Back at it tomorrow.”

Extremos Team

“The Grade6 team started the 2nd Acclimation Cycle and have already arrived at Camp 1 with a temperature from – 15 to – 20.

Carlos commented by phone that the icefall is longer than usual, but it is very safe! In this stretch of approach the whole group took between 10 and 12 hours to reach C1. Everyone is well and resting.”

Riki (Colorado Mountain Lover)

“I am heading out in 7 hours again at 1 am for my second rotation on Everest. Back through the crazy khumbu icefall again! I will spend one night at Camp 1 and then three nights at Camp 2. On the second to last day up there we will climb the Lhotse face to Camp 3. I will spend at least an hour or two at Camp 3 to acclimatize before returning to Camp 2. 

Today people up there were turned back before Camp 3 because of rockfalls so fingers crossed. l’ve been asked and I can understand why it is confusing as to why we keep putting in a lot of effort, risk and time going up and down through the icefall instead of continuing onward. At high altitude your body needs time to acclimatize to prevent altitude sickness and worse. By going up, sleeping high and then coming back to a lower elevation, our bodies have time to both adjust and recover. There is no other way up Everest on the Nepali side except through the icefall so it just is what it is and what we must do. I am excited and am feeling good and strong. Thank you all, I’ll check in in five or six days.”

Furtenbach Adventures

“Both Flash and the North Classic Teams climbed Mera Peak and are now in Everest basecamp. South Classic team is coming down from their rotation today. A small North side team is entering Tibet in a few days.”

Terray Sylvester

“First steps into the icefall today! Preparation before we begin to move up to Camp 1”

 

 

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