Monday, May 27, 2024
2021 SeasonDiaries

Karakoram Diaries – 3rd July

A round-up of today’s events on the mountains of the Karakoram.

Mirza Ali (K2 and Broad Peak)

“Karakorum Expeditions is extremely proud of its Broad Peak rope fixing team as in very bad weather conditions, the team established camp 2.

“I always believed that if you give these young boys an opportunity they can make you proud! I am pleased with the positive comments from Stephan Keck that the boys did great ropework! After establishing camp 2, the team is back to camp 1, tomorrow the team will try to open camp 3!!!

“It snowed a lot today, tomorrow we hope is a good day!”

“The Broad Peak rope fixing leader was Akber Sadpara!

“K2 rope fixing team is at camp 1, tomorrow they will try to fix the route till camp 2.

“While some of our members went up to camp 1 on Broad Peak and came back to base camp, Rick and Jerry are spending the night at broad peak camp 1, Fotis and his guide Ahmed Hussain are at camp 1 of K2!”

Sajid Ali Sadpara (K2)

“Thank you SCOM for starting a 4G Services in the K2 area and also to dedicating this tower in the name of Ali Sadpara. The SCOM tower is inagurated by Prime Minister of Pakistan Imran Khan. Due to this service we are now contact with the world.”

Kenton Cool (K2)

“First views of K2….. Trek to BC has been amazing, finally seeing peaks that I’ve only read about for years!”

Jerry Gore (K2)

“K2 Insulin Challenge: I am standing on a rocky outcrop at 5300m in a snowstorm to send you this update. The wonders of 4G!
We are into the steady acclimatisation phase of the K2 expedition.
Over the past two days, we have gone from K2 base camp up to Broad Peak camp 1, back down to the bottom and then back to camp 1 for the night.
There is only a 750m altitude difference between the two but it is still a five-hour climb. It leaves you exhausted but it has to be done to get ready to go 8000m +
Rick Allen and I have normal high altitude side-effects: headaches, nausea, fatigue and loss of appetite. It is a challenge juggling the altitude with insulin injections. You need to inject more because you are doing loads of exercise and eating loads of carbs for fuel.

Niels Jespers (K2)

“K2 is not yet fully visible. Usually with a veil. Sometimes we see the top above the clouds. Every time goosebumps at the thought of being able to make a top attempt on a beautiful day.”

Becks Ferry (K2)

“Never in a million years did I ever dare dream that I’d be contemplating attempting to climb one of the world’s most beautiful , iconic and infamous mountains. It’s apparent that this is going to be one of the most physically and mentally challenging things I’ve taken on. The mountains and terrain here are spellbindingly beautiful but at the same time seem to demand an extra layer of endurance capabilities. The trek in is very different to the Himalayas. It’s stunning , all consuming , long and committing. The weather is also very different. Coupled with this is an extra layer of camping en route. I’m not going to pretend I’m finding it easy, I’m not. Yet, I’m grateful for the opportunity to be in this incredible place. I’m humbled, truly, to be setting foot on this mountain. I’m equally humbled to be surrounded by a great time of Sherpas, local and western guides who look out for each other daily. To me, this selflessness epitomises high mountain adventures. We have each other’s backs. So, for now, some rest, some reflection, and some more chocolate”

Carlos Garranzo (K2)

“Unless the weather is very bad, I want to go out tomorrow with Taqi to sleep on ABC and the next day go up to C1 to sleep there. At the moment I am slow, I am surrounded by very young and very strong people, so I will go at my own pace to acclimatize well, although I will share the tents in the upper fields with Oswald and thus we divide the work “.

Lakpa Sherpa (K2)

“We are finally at K2 Base Camp!!
It was long journey till here and it would not have been possible without the help of the porters and donkeys who helped us with carrying everything.
They are an integral part of any expedition.
Hopefully the weather will favour us and we can start our climb in few days.”

Fahad Badar (Broad Peak)

“Everyone is back safely to base camp, ropes to Camp 2 Broad Peak are done. A small avalanche was encountered by climbers to K2 camp 1.”

Saeed Almemari (Broad Peak)

“The word ‘impossible’ is not found in my dictionary and in every time I was loosing hope, I was challenging myself and prove that I will reach my goal no matter what. Today, I have reached the 1st Broad Peak camp. Over height of 8,051 m, where I will continue practicing intensely to be fully prepared for the availability of the open window and then move towards the summit.”

The Altitude Team (Gasherbrum II)

“Finally yesterday we finished the first acclimatization rotation. We did a long first stage through the glacier until we reached C1, where we spent one night. Yesterday we returned to CB to recover and rest. Tomorrow we start the second rotation, going back to C1 and if we have the opportunity to go up to C2.”

Czech / Slovak Team (Gasherbrum II)

“Today, the boys enjoyed an acclimatization day at the first altitude camp. We agreed to go back to BC tomorrow to rest. There was an option to go to Camp 2 tomorrow, but we won’t.”

Manuel Gonzalez (Nanga Parbat)

“Hello, I’m at Nanga Parbat. It is being a disaster this year.”

Martin Elias (Dansam Peak)

“During the last month we climbed a new route the north spur of Dansam Occidental Peak, 6600m of altitude.
1600 meters of technical climbing up to M6, 6.
In the recently opened Dansam/K13 Kondus valley in Pakistan.
We spent 6 days of climbing on the wall reaching the summit on the 29th .

“On the summit we had the surprise to find some old gear , the mystery remains…
More news soon.”

Mathieu Maynadier (Pumari Chhish)

“After spending few days at the base camp we have done two good days in the mountains until 5600m, it was great for our acclimatization.

There is a good weather window next week. We plan to do a second acclimatization lap in the mountains this week and after we will be ready for the Pumari Chhish”

Hiroshi Kawasaki (Lupghar Sar)

“Thursday we descended from Camp 2 to go to Camp 1. A small avalanche on our Camp 1 tent, a small hole is yawning (Duct Tape Repair).

“Before Dawn, it’s time to go down to ABC from Camp 1. The weather forecast is not as I thought, it’s not going well, but climbing in the Karakoram is pretty difficult as like in Nepal, the good weather doesn’t last.


Summer Season in the Karakoram – 2021

Main Photo Credit: Boris Langenstein – Gasherbrum II