Monday, July 22, 2024
Other Peaks

Luphgar Sar Climb Updates

Qudrat Ali, Hiroshi Kawasaki, Shaheen Baig and Akram Ali Shah are among a team looking to climb the unclimbed north face of Luphgar Sar.

Lupghar Sar is 108th on the list of world tallest mountains. It is located in Shimshal valley of Hunza Gojal.

Updates are not regular and are poorly translated but we will try to keep up with them in this diary:

18th July

“Entering C1 on Friday. Saturday The highest point of last week arrived at 6 o’clock and the route construction started immediately. Due to the recent high temperature, the snow melts at once and the ice under the snow begins to appear and the climbing speed drops sharply. Since the fulcrum is also an ice screw, it took a lot of time to start, and at the 7th pitch of 4 hours, I got over the big slope and came out to the ridge of the Korean route. Altitude 5700m. The bad weather has continued for 6 days since the beginning of the day, so this year we ended here. Since the core has been exceeded, it will be a summit attack next year. Although I was eliminated at about half of the total points, it was a satisfying Himalayan climbing that I drew a new route using 45 fixed rope pitches, 25 rock harkens, 10 ice screws and 15 snow bars..”

12th July

“Moved C1 on the ridge that climbed 8 pitches from C1 on Friday. Climbing equipment was unloaded at the new C1 on Saturday. Sunday upper route work. I came across a rock wall on the upper right of the snow surface, and when I climbed the mix on the right with a slight traverse, I hit a steep garry as expected and went straight up 2 pitches to the snow surface. I hit too much piton and it became difficult for my right hand to par, so I ended here 5500m, about 10 more pitches on a simple snow surface to the planned C2 point. It’s still fun to follow the route while avoiding danger if there is no record.”

Travel gear from

7th July

“It’s sunny, rain, and snow, and it’s not going well with the weather like monsoon, but I’m going to go to the top of the day from tomorrow.
Another big one came today, but no problem with our route. It’s time to starting climbing in Pakistan.”

5th July

“The weather is nice today, but after snow, I can’t move. When I was washing it, I immediately came with boom. It’s an avalanche parade.”

3rd July


“From Thursday to c2 route maneuver, I was planning to go to c1 on the weather, and the next day I entered c1 in kawasaki, shaheen. It’s the last pitch and Russell, filling up the fix rope. In addition, a small avalanche on c1 tent, a small hole is yawning (Duct Tape Repair). The snow starts around the time of the day, and it’s snowing in the morning. Before Dawn, it’s time to go down to ABC from Camp 1. The weather forecast is not as I thought, but it doesn’t work out, but it’s not going well, but it’s going to climb Karakoram in It’s pretty difficult that the good weather doesn’t last in Nepal.”

30th June


“C2 route construction is scheduled from tomorrow. Entering Kawasaki and Shaheen C1 on the 1st, C2 will reach a little less than 6000m until the 5th, and ABC will descend. After unloading to C1 for 3 days, Kudrat and Akram enter C1 and set up C2 and then descend ABC. Cloudy snow this morning.”

27th June


“Today at pm, crossing the glacier to mount. Day of root maneuver. I can use the fulcrum and rope of the year ago, but I’m going to put a rock haken in the middle of the day. The snow was deep near c1. Russell is coming back to ABC.”

24th June


“Today Advanced Base Camp (ABC). m set up. This is the real base camp. The activities are starting.”

22nd June


“Today, we set up a base camp (BC). m on the elevation difference. I was able to carry the luggage of the ✕ ✕ kg to porter-kun and donkey-kun. From bc to the top of le salle, the elevation difference is about to be a bit.”


Hiroshi Kawasaki Facebook

Qudrat Ali Instagram