Monday, May 27, 2024

Paul Diac and Iulian Costan – Expeditie Gasherbrum II Updates

Paul Diac and Iulian Costan are climbing Gasherbrum II with ‘Alpine Adeventure Guides Pakistan.’

They will be part of a large team including ‘Pawel Gorsiak from Poland plus 2 more French, 2 Germans, someone from Estonia, Maria Ab and Vlad Saveluc plus possibly Simona Popa.’

We will follow their journey with this diary of events…

25th July

“Paul and Maria climbed today in c1 and tomorrow they will climb in c2 to recover the equipment left after the rise of the G2 peak, Iulian and Vlad left BC for Skardu.”

20th July


“I’m back in BC, I’m ok but broken. On 18th I reached the top, the last, 22 hours of c3 and back…..” NO OXYGEN!”

18th July

Reports that Paul has reached the summit!

“Iulian arrived in C1 safely, tomorrow he will go down in BC.”

17th July

“Paul climbed C3 to 7000 m, jumps an acclimatization stage and tries to attack the top tonight with ′′ the rest of the gang ′′
Iulian climbed to 6600 m and went down to C2 to sleep”

16th July

“We are both fine in c2 but obo. Tomorrow we try c3, then there is a quick wave for very fast people. I don’t know if we qualify, we should recover from it.”

15th July

“Paul and Iulian arrived in C1 after 8 hours, they are feeling very good, they are going to go to sleep and tomorrow to climb C2.”

13th July

“The boys are in BC today and tomorrow because of the bad weather, on 15, if the weather permits they will go up to c3, they plan to not descend into BC, respectively only in c1 where they left enough equipment.”

“Two more of our team head for base camp, Vlad Saveluc and Maria Ab, salute you from Otopeni. Tomorrow morning they should arrive in Islamabad.”

12th July

“Paul Diac and Iulian Costan went down to base camp. They are waiting for a better window of weather and they are recovering in the meantime.”

11th July

“Paul and Iulian arrived in C1 today. The idea was to do the 3th acclimatization rotation, but the weather is announced a bit bad the next few days, they will be decided tomorrow depending on the weather and how they feel if the climb continues in C2 or returning to base camp to wait for a better weather window.”

9th July

“And sad news Pawel Gorsiak had a pulmonary edema and was taken by helicopter from base camp, but he is already in Islamabad and feeling better.”

8th July

“Today they all arrived in C2(6400 m), with Banana ridge being steep and exposed they ended up pretty tired. Tomorrow the plan is to go down to base camp, so the second acclimatization rotation would end. They need at least one more rotation in which they sleep in C3(7000 m) and descend to base camp.”

7th July

“Iulian and Moritz went up to 6200 m and went down to C1 where they will sleep. Paul and Serge climbed towards C2(6500 m) with the plan to sleep there.”

6th July

“Iulian climbed C1(5900 m) today. Paul remained in C1 for rest, tomorrow if the weather and physical condition allow him to try to climb C2(6500 m), mostly the route being equipped yesterday.”

5th July

“Iulian stayed in base camp today. Paul with 5 more colleagues put about 500 m of fixed strings, equipping Banana ridge almost completely.
Paul climbed back to C1 last night, with a shipment of strings, Iulian climbs today. Continue equipping on Banana Ridge.”

2nd July

“Together with Justin Ionescu and an experienced Polish-Czech team started today equipping with fixed strings on the first part of the Banana Ridge section, which is between 6000 m and 6400 m (C2).
Tomorrow they will come down to base camp for rest.”

1st July

“Today Paul and Iulian arrived safely in C1(5900 m), in moody weather, when the sun, when the snowfall, will stay there overnight.”

28th June

“Everyone is back in base camp, tomorrow is a break day.
After yesterday’s rest, today the acclimatization rotations started: 9 members total, divided into 3 teams; everyone climbed Icefall (portion with many crevices).
Iulian with Pawel and 4 more members went down to sleep in base camp, Paul with 2 other members went up to sleep in C1(5900 m).”

26th June

“Paul and Iulian arrived safely in base camp, at 5200 m-5300 m. The distance traveled so far is 5-6 times greater than the one left to the top, but the really hard part follows.
Tomorrow will be a day of rest, and then the mountain equipment will begin (together with the other members who will try the summit this season) and the acclimatization rotations.
Good weather and even better roads!!!”


Expeditie Gasherbrum 2 Facebook

Iulian Costan Facebook

Paul Diac Facebook

Iulian Costan Instagram